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GARDEN GUIDE 

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THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 



THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 

NEW YORK ' BOSTON • CHICAGO • DALLAS 
ATLANTA • SAN FRANCISCO 

MACMILLAN & CO., Limited 

LONDON . BOMBAY • CALCUTTA 
MELBOURNE 

THE MACMILLAN CO. OF CANADA, Ltd. 

TORONTO 



THE SUBURBAN 
GARDEN GUIDE 



BY 
PARKER THAYER BARNES 



THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 
1913 

All rights reserved 






Copyright, igii, 
By the suburban PRESS 



Copyright, 1913, 

By the MACMILLAN COMPANY 

Set up and electrotyped. Published October, 1913. 



FERRIS PRINTl 
NEW YORK. N 


NG COMPANY 
. Y., U. S. A. 






©GI.A35 


4895 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

The Best Vegetables for the Home Garden 3 

The Best Flowers for the Home Garden 17 

How AND When to Spray: 

Fruit Garden Pests 36 

In the Vegetable Garden 50 

In the Flower Garden 61 

All Insects Destroying Trees and Shrubs 68 

Fertilizing the Small Garden 72 

Appendix: 

Table of General Rules 77 

Planting Table for Flowers 86 

Planting Table for Vegetables 106 

Planting Table for Bulbs 128 

A Planting Calendar 131 

Spraying Table 136 

Pruning Table 144 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 



THE BEST VEGETABLES FOR THE 
HOME GARDEN 

Artichoke, Globe. A tall-growing vegetable which 
is grown for its flower-heads. It can be raised from 
seed or from suckers, the latter being the usual method, 
because then one is able to perpetuate good varieties. 
The varieties do not come true to name when grown 
from seed. Seeds sown one year will produce good 
flower-heads the following year; they can sometimes 
be had the same year by sowing the seed early indoors. 
The flower-heads are gathered just before the blue 
flowers begin to appear. The part eaten consists of the 
fleshy portion on the inside of the large outer scales and 
the "bottom," or receptacle, of the head. 

Grow the artichoke in rich soil. It will bear for two 
or three years. Give it slight protection over winter. 
French Globe is a standard sort. The Jerusalem arti- 
choke is grown for its root. 

Asparagus. This vegetable is grown for its young 
shoots, and the quality depends upon the succulence 
of them. To get the best shoots, plant one-year-old 
roots and allow them to become well established before 
cutting begins; they should grow two full years before 
cutting. Grow asparagus in a light, rich, and well- 

3 



4 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

drained soil, to secure the best and earliest results. Stop 
cutting the shoots when peas become ripe — June 25 
in the North. Cut off the stalks in the fall before the 
seeds mature (berries turn red), so that stray seedlings 
will not appear between the rows. Mulch heavily in 
the fall with manure. In the spring, use nitrate of 
soda. Conover's Colossal, Barr's Mammoth, and Pal- 
metto, are the best green varieties. Mammoth white 
has white stalks. 

Beans, Broad. But few people know this vegetable 
in this country, but it is highly appreciated in England. 
It is used as a shell-bean. They are as hardy as peas, 
but will not succeed in hot climates, and they are sub- 
ject to bad attacks of the flea-beetle. Early Mazagan 
and Broad Windsor are standard sorts. When the pods 
have formed, break off the tops, to force the strength 
into the pods. 

Beans, Bush Lima. These are two to four weeks 
earlier than the pole limas. There are three t)^es. 
Dwarf Sieva, or Henderson's Bush Lima, is the earHest, 
but has small pods. The young beans, however, are 
delicious. Wood's Prolific, or the Improved Henderson, 
is a week later, and is a stronger grower and the pods 
are a little larger. The third type is Burpee's Bush 
Lima, which, while being dwarf, has large, broad pods, 
like the pole sorts. 

The seedsmen have improved these original sorts, so 
that better or earlier forms can be had under such 
names as Burpee's Quarter Century, Dreer's Wonder, 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 5 

Kumerle, Fordhook. All limas are ultra-tropical plants, 
so must not be planted until the ground is warm. Set 
the seeds on edge in the ground. Do not use strong 
nitrogenous manures in the spring; use, rather, phos- 
phoric acid and potash. Nitrogen causes too much 
growth, and retards the season. 

Beans, Pole Lima. Later than the dwarf sorts. 
The earliest of the tall ones is the Sieva, which has 
three-inch pods, each pod with three beans. They are 
delicious if picked before they have reached full size. 
Large White, Early Leviathan, Early Jersey, King of 
the Garden, Ford's Mammoth Podded, are all good 
varieties. The last two are late, but have pods five 
inches long. For fall use, plant Potato-leaved or Chal- 
lenger. These do better in cool weather. Use poles 
ten feet long. In cool seasons, when the plants are 
making more growth than pods, cut the tops of the 
plants off when they reach the top of the pole, so that 
there will be more beans produced. 

Beans, Bush. There are green and yellow beans. 
Burpee's Stringless Green Pod, Improved Round Val- 
entine, Giant Stringless Valentine, Extra-Early Ref- 
ugee, and Refugee or 1,000 to i, are standard green- 
podded sorts, and mature in the order given. A good 
succession can be had by planting at the same time 
Burpee's Stringless Green Pod, Extra-Early Refugee, 
and 1,000 to I. They will produce for two to four 
weeks after the first comes into bearing, and one or two 
further plantings of these varieties, ten days or two 



6 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

weeks apart, will maintain a succession all summer. 
For the best beans, grow round-podded and stringless 
sorts. 

Of the yellow, or wax beans, Burpee's White Wax, 
Kidney Wax, Rust-proof Wax, and Golden Wax, are all 
good varieties, but the first is probably the best. These 
are flat-podded. Pencil-Pod Black and Brittle Wax are 
two round-podded varieties that require seven to eight 
weeks to bear, but are good in appearance and flavor. 

Beans, Pole. These are used either as snap-beans, 
or as shell-beans used green. White Creaseback (green) 
is the earliest. It requires eight to ten weeks to mature. 
Other good varieties, maturing in about the following 
order, are White Dutch Caseknife (green and best for 
cool situations), Old Homestead or Kentucky Wonder 
(green), Stringless Green-pod (green). Golden Cluster 
Wax (yellow), Sunshine Wax (yellow). Golden Car- 
mine Horticultural (yellow, and the best of the yellow 
kinds). Lazy Wife, a popular and very prolific sort; the 
last is a fall bean. The yellow kinds are the best for 
the hot summer months. Plant a few hills of each for 
testing. You will know better, then, what kinds suit 
your particular needs. 

Beets. Egyptian, EcUpse, and Edmund's, mature 
in the order given. Beets are better when young and 
tender; so, make sowings a couple of weeks apart. The 
thinnings can be used for "greens." 

Broccoli. This is really nothing but a longer- 
seasoned and later-maturing cauliflower, but better 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 7 

adapted than it for the cool North. Early White, 
Mammoth White, and Purple Cape, are good varieties. 

Brussels Sprouts. Little cabbages that grow thickly 
clustered together on a tall stalk. It is a late-fall and 
winter vegetable, that is best after it has been touched 
by frost. It can be left outdoors during the winter, if 
protected by cornstalks or straw. It requires the same 
treatment as late cabbage. Grows two to three feet 
high, but there are dwarf varieties. Long Island, Dal- 
keith, Half-dwarf, are good varieties. Good seed is 
essential. The stocks soon deteriorate unless carefully 
selected. 

Cabbage. Early Jersey Wakefield is the best early 
sort. The head is smaller than the late sorts, so can 
be planted closer together. All Head is a good inter- 
mediate variety, and Late Flat Dutch a good late 
variety. Early cabbages are started in the fall and 
carried over the winter in coldframes, or they can be 
started in February in the greenhouse and hardened- 
off before planting out. The late varieties can be started 
in seed-beds outdoors. Do not water the cabbages 
after they have matured, it will cause the plants to 
grow more and will spUt the heads. They will not keep 
then. 

Cardoon. Similar to the Globe artichoke. It is too 
large a vegetable for the small garden, and valuable 
only where a very large variety is wanted. The leaves 
are gathered together and the earth drawn around the 
stalks to blanch them, like celery; unblanched, it is 



8 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

not fit to eat. Large Spanish and Large Solid are two 
good varieties. It needs a rich soil. 

Carrot. Like beets, they are best when young and 
tender. Grow Early Forcing, making several sowings 
for succession. For larger roots, plant Danvers or 
similar varieties. 

Cauliflower. The culture is the same as for cabbage, 
but cauHflower demands, if it be grown successfully, 
cool, moist weather. Plan an early crop, one that will 
mature before the hot weather, and a late fall crop. 
Earliest Dwarf Erfurt is the best early. For cool cli- 
mates, plant Early Snowball and Algiers for second- 
early and main crop, respectively. In warmer sections, 
make successive sowings of Earliest Dwarf Erfurt. It 
requires a moist, cool, and rich soil. 

Celery. A leaf crop that requires a rich soil — one 
in which there is much nitrogen. Grow in trenches, so 
that it can be easily banked up for blanching. It can 
also be blanched by boards or paper placed closely 
about it to exclude the Hght; but earth-blanched celery 
has the most flavor. Early varieties can be blanched 
by planting close together in a coldframe and putting 
a shutter over the frame, to blanch. White Plume is 
the best early variety. Golden Self -blanching is nearly 
as early, and equally good, some people prefer it to 
White Plume. For main crop, grow Boston Market, 
a small variety with a very nutty flavor, and Giant 
Pascal, a larger, tender sort. Give an abundance of 
nitrate of soda. 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 9 

Chard, Swiss. A beet that does not produce a large 
root. The leaves only are eaten. It can be served as 
beet "greens," or the mid-rib can be removed and 
served as asparagus. A fifteen-foot row will supply a 
family of three. When the leaves are cut off, a new 
supply is formed. There is no choice as to varieties, 
all are good. 

Corn. Peep O'Day, Golden Bantam, Crosby's 
twelve-rowed, and Stowell's Evergreen, or Country 
Gentleman, will insure a succession; they will mature 
in the order named. 

Corn Salad. Grown as a fall salad, and can be used 
as a substitute for lettuce, but it is not nearly so good. 

Cress. Water cress can be grown in any small 
stream of water, or in soil kept constantly damp. Up- 
land or curled cress can be grown in the garden or in 
"flats" in a frame. Make frequent sowings (once in 
2 weeks). It gives piquancy to a salad. 

Cucumbers. For an early crop, grow Early White 
Spine; second early. Cool and Crisp; for main crop, 
Long Green. Start a few plants indoors on inverted sod 
or in pots, for the earliest crop. Seed sown July i will 
produce fruits large enough for pickHng by fall. 

Dandelion. A pot-herb, or "green." They can be 
blanched and served as a salad. French Garden, 
Thick-leaved, and Large-leaved, are good sorts. Seeds 
sown any time up to June will be ready to cut the 
following spring. Needs rich land and nitrogenous 
manures. 



lO THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

Eggplant. A hot-climate plant, which must never 
receive checks during its growth. Start early indoors, 
and provide a fairly rich, well-drained soil, and a long 
season in which to grow. New York Improved and 
Black Pekin are the best varieties. Fruits are ready 
to eat when one-third grown. 

Endive. A substitute for lettuce, and is essentially 
a summer and fall crop. It will thrive when lettuce 
will not succeed because of hot weather. Requires the 
same culture as lettuce. Blanch the interior leaves by 
gathering all the leaves into a bunch and tying them 
with string or raffia at the top. This is done two or 
three weeks before it is wanted for use. The crowns 
will sometimes rot when tied up for blanching, if the 
weather is rainy or continues cloudy for some time. It 
must be used as soon as blanched. Late fall plants can 
be stored and blanched in the cellar or pits. Make 
successive sowings every two weeks. For varieties, 
grow White Curled, Green Curled, or Broad-leaved. 

Kale. The culture is similar to that of cabbage, 
but the plants are hardier and require less attention. 
It is grown for its leaves, which are used as a pot-herb. 
It is used only very late in the fall and early spring, 
when other pot-herbs are not available. It is not in- 
jured by frost, so can be left in the field all winter. The 
older leaves and leafstalks are all improved by freezing. 
Good varieties are Dwarf Green Curled Scotch, Dwarf 
Curled Brown. Sow Siberian in September for early 
spring "greens." 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE ii 

Kohlrabi. Although almost unknown in some sec- 
tions, it is highly prized in others. It is grown for its 
tuberous stem, — a turnip-Hke tuber which is produced 
just above the surface of the soil. It must be used be- 
fore the tubers become too large and stringy (three 
inches in diameter). They must be grown quickly and 
receive no check, otherwise they will be tough and 
bitter. For early crops, sow in frames Short-leaved 
Vienna. For main crop. Early White Vienna. This 
latter is the kind grown by market-gardeners. 
- Lettuce. Grown for salad, and it is a cool, short- 
season crop which is usually grown as a successional or 
companion crop. Requires a moist, rich, friable loam 
and quick-acting fertilizers, mostly nitrogen. There are 
three kinds — loose-headed, of which Grand Rapids is 
the type; head, or cabbage lettuce, and Romain or Cos. 
For the earliest lettuce, grow Grand Rapids; for main 
crop outdoors, grow heat-resisting varieties, such as 
Deacon, Hanson, Summer Cabbage Curled Simpson, 
Salamander. In midsummer, protect it during midday 
from the hot sun. Express Cos, Trianon Cos, are the 
best of the Romain lettuces. Some of them will form 
a sufficiently compact head to blanch themselves, but 
it is better to tie the leaves together to insure blanching. 
The Cos lettuces are the crispest and, in some respects, 
the best lettuces. 

Melons, Musk, or, as they are sometimes erro- 
neously called, cantaloupes. Cantaloupes have hard, 
warty rinds, and are seldom grown in this country, al- 



12 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

though the name is frequently used. Light, moist soil — 
one in which there is always much soil moisture, but 
still good drainage — will prove the best for melons. 
Three to four good fruits per plant is the usual yield. 
For early, grow Netted Gem (Rocky Ford is a selection 
from this, made famous by being grown at the town of 
that name in Colorado). For second early, grow Emer- 
ald Gem, and for main crop. Long Island Beauty. 

Melons, Water. The cultural requirements are the 
same as for muskmelons. Early Fordhook is the best 
early, while Cole's Early is the best second-early and 
main-crop melon. 

Mustard adds a pleasant, pungent flavor to salads. 
Make successive sowings every ten days or two weeks. 
Good varieties are Chinese and White London. 

Okra. This is the vegetable used in making the 
famous gumbo soups of the South. It is a warm- 
weather plant. There are two kinds, tall and dwarf, 
the latter being the best for home gardens. Grow 
Dwarf Green Long Pod and Lady Finger or White 
Louisiana. The pods of the former should be picked 
when two to four inches long, the latter, when four to 
five inches long; do not allow the pods to stay on 
longer. If there are too many for immediate use, 
gather and dry them. Gather the pods daily, preferably 
in the evening. 

Onion. For the earliest sorts, plant onion sets. For 
main crop, Danvers or White Globe. Prizetaker onion 
was the first big onion grown in this country. Since 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 13 

its introduction, in 1888, there have been others, not- 
ably Ailsa Craig. These onions frequently weigh one 
pound or more. To be had at their best, they should 
be started early indoors and transplanted. For suc- 
cess, grow onions in a loose, friable loam that is rich 
and free from stones. It must be finely prepared, all 
stones and lumps being removed. 

Parsley. The most popular herb for garnishing. It 
is a biennial, the foliage being used the first year; the 
plant being destroyed at the end of the season and new 
started for next year. The seeds germinate very slowly 
unless soaked for twenty- four hours in lukewarm water. 
It requires three months from sowing to get plants of 
sufficient size to allow the picking of the leaves. Moss- 
Curled and Fern-leaved are the best varieties. Ham- 
burg, or Turnip-rooted, has a fleshy root. 

Parsnip. To be good, they should stay in the ground 
over-winter, but they can be harvested and stored in 
earth in a cool cellar or pit; the roots must not shrivel; 
if stored inside, the quality will be injured. Hollow 
Crown and Student are two standard varieties. 
>•- Peas are hardy; they may be shown in the spring as 
soon as the ground can be worked. The ground should 
be deeply worked. English gardeners frequently work 
it three feet deep and find that it pays. Make succes- 
sional plantings every six to ten days. For the earliest 
crop, sow a smooth variety, such as Daniel O'Rourke; 
a week later, when the ground has warmed up a little, 
wrinkled varieties, which are sweeter, can be sown. 



14 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

For second early, plant Nott's Excelsior; for main crop, 
Champion of England. An early variety for very late 
peas can be sown in August. Too much nitrogen will 
cause the plants to make too much growth and too little 
fruit. 

Peas, Sugar. These are edible-podded peas, which 
are picked while the pea or seed is still small and the 
pod tender. They are broken up, cooked and served 
like string-beans. 

Pepper. Needs the same culture as tomato. Do not 
plant them out until all danger of frost has passed. For 
the earliest fruits, plant NeapoHtan. Bull Nose and 
Ruby King are two good main crops. 

Potatoes. To get the earliest potatoes, sprout the 
seed, put them in a warm, light place, so that the sprouts 
can grow; they may be as much as three inches long 
without harm. Early Rose is a good early variety; for 
second early. Beauty of Hebron; for main crop. Carman 
No. I and Green Mountain. The variety to be 
grown will depend somewhat on the character of the 
soil. 

Pumpkin. Two good varieties for pies are Sugar and 
Dunkard. They must be stored in a warm (45°) dry 
place, or they will rot. Plant among the corn, to save 
room. 

Radish. Can be had in twenty-one days. Sow as 
soon as the ground can be worked, and make succes- 
sional sowings every week all summer. For early, 
plant Early Scarlet Turnip Forcing; for second early, 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 15 

French Breakfast and Long Scarlet. For storing for 
winter, sow seeds in June of Half-long Black Spanish. 
Store these in damp sand. 

Rampion. Roots can be eaten like radish, or the 
leaves can be used as salads. Store the roots in damp 
sand in the cellar. 

Rhubarb. The quality depends upon its size and 
succulence, therefore the soil must be rich. A planta- 
tion will last twenty years or more. Linnaeus, Victoria, 
St. Martin's, are good kinds. To get the earliest stalks, 
put a barrel over a root and place manure about it. 

Salsify. A hardy vegetable for flavoring soups, and 
may also be served as parsnips are. Long White and 
Sandwich Island Mammoth are good varieties. Store 
over winter in sand in the cellar. 

Spinach. Really a spring and fall crop, but can be 
had all summer by making successional sowings in cool, 
moist ground. For early- spring crops, sow the seeds 
in the fall outdoors and cover with mulch. Thick- 
leaved is the hardiest; for spring-sowing, Long Standing, 
Long Season and Victoria are the best. 

Spinach, New Zealand. Not a true spinach, but a 
good substitute, as it withstands the heat of summer 
when the true spinach will not grow well. Use the 
ends of the branches and the leaves. 

Squash. The earUest are the summer squashes, of 
which White Bush Scarlet and Yellow Crookneck are 
the best. For winter, plant Boston Marrow or Hub- 
bard. Store as for pumpkins. 



l6 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

Tomato. Start the early kinds in pots or cans, so 
that they may be easily transplanted when all danger 
of frost has passed. Grow on stakes or trellises, or put 
brush about them, to prevent the vines getting on the 
ground. For early, plant EarHana or Early Jewel; for 
main crop, Acme and Stone. The ground must not 
be too rich or fruit will not set. 

Turnip. To be good, they must be grown quickly. 
Slowly-grown turnips will be woody, stringy and bitter. 
Have rich, moist soil in fine tilth. 

Of the flat kinds, Milan Purple Top, Munich and 
Teltow are good home kinds. White rutabagas are 
better than the yellow. Grow Budlong's White Swede. 
Plant Rutabagas in June or July. 

Flat turnips for winter use should also be sown in 
June, in New England; about New York, July 15; 
while, about Philadelphia, August 15 is plenty early 
enough. If planted earlier they would get too hard and 
woody. For spring use, sow as soon as the ground can 
be worked. 

The best books on vegetable gardening are: The 
Principles of Vegetable Gardening, by Prof. L. H. 
Bailey. $1.50 net. 

Vegetable Gardening, by Prof. S. B. Green. $1. 

How to Grow Vegetables, by Allen French. $0. 50 net. 

How to Make a Vegetable Garden, by Edith L. Ful- 
lerton. $2.20. 



THE BEST FLOWERS FOR THE 
HOME GARDEN 

In the seed catalogues, the annuals are divided into 
three classes, hardy, half-hardy and tender, but, for 
practical purposes, the amateur need consider them in 
only two classes, hardy and tender. Seeds of the hardy 
annuals can be planted in the border where they are 
to go, or in seed-beds before all danger of frost is past, 
that is, the seeds can be sown as soon as the ground is 
in ht condition to work. The half-hardy and tender 
annuals cannot be planted out until the ground has 
become warm or until danger from frost is past. For 
this reason, the common practice is to sow them in flats 
in the greenhouse or windows-garden, or in coldframes. 
If one has a coldframe, it will be much easier to handle 
all the seeds of annuals this way because much larger 
plants can be secured by the last of May or early in 
June when the bulk of the bedding is done. 

The seed-bed should be finely pulverized, and the 
rows made about a quarter of an inch deep. This is 
best done by having a strip of wood one inch thick and 
about three or four inches wide, and as long as the 
seed-bed. On one side, a small strip of wood one inch 
square and as long as the strip to which it is attached, is 

17 



l8 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

tacked. This is used to make the drills for the seed 
by pressing into the soft earth. When the seeds 
have been sown, glass sash should be put over the 
frame, or a cheap substitute, water-proofed muslin 
frames. 

As soon as the young seedlings have made two or 
three true leaves, they should be pricked out or trans- 
planted to about two inches apart each way. If pots, 
either clay or paper, are available, the young plants 
can be transplanted into these. The great advantage 
of using pots is that the roots will not be disturbed when 
they are planted in the beds, but where space is at a 
premium this method is not essential except in a few 
instances, such as argemone and mignonette. 

The following list of plants supplements the table in 
the appendix. The letters after the plant name in- 
dicate whether the plant is a hardy or tender annual 
or perennial. 

Abronia. H. A. A tender California perennial which 
in the East is grown as an annual. It is a traiHng plant, 
having yellow, pink, rose or white fragrant flowers that 
resemble a verbena flower. It grows six to eighteen 
inches high. An excellent way to grow this is to start 
the seeds in the fall in pots in a sandy soil and store the 
young plants in a coldf rame over winter. A . fragrans 
is a night bloomer. Remove the husk from the seed 
before sowing. 

Achillea Ptarmica (Sneezewort). H. P. Grows two 
feet high and has white flowers that are borne in a 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 19 

loose corymb; they flower all summer. A double va- 
riety, The Pearl, is the best type. It is one of the best 
hardy white-flowered perennials grown. 

Adonis Autumnalis (Flos Adonis) and A. iEstivalis 
(Pheasant's Eye) are hardy annuals with crimson or 
scarlet flowers. The former flowers from May to July; 
the latter in June. They grow about one foot in height. 
There are several hardy perennials: Spring Adonis A. 
vernalis has large, bright yellow flowers in early spring. 
This is the common one in cultivation. Apennina is 
much like Vernalis except that the flowers are a little 
larger. It blooms in April. Pyrenaica has a branched 
stem, but the flowers are smaller than Vernalis; blooms 
in July. Amurensis has large, yellow flowers and blooms 
two weeks ahead of any other hardy perennial. There 
are several other varieties of lesser importance. 

Ageratum (Floss Flower). H. A. Annuals that can 
be grown from seeds or cuttings. There are several 
varieties, white and blue. The blue varieties are best, 
and Stella Gurney, a bright blue, is the best variety. 
Flowers from June to frost. 

Agrostemma (Rose of Heaven). H. P. It blooms 
the first year from seed. Grows from one to one and 
a half feet high and has bright crimson flowers one 
inch across, similar to a single pink, and silvery white 
foliage. Is an excellent cut-flower, very free-flowering. 
In flower from July to frost. 

Alonsoa. H. H. A. A half-hardy annual, having 
scarlet flowers that are one-half to one inch across. 



20 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

Excellent as a bedding plant for small beds or for clumps 
in borders. Grows one foot high. 

Amarantus. T. A. There are several species, all 
showy, tender annuals. The foHage is brilliant and 
they have brilliant red or crimson spikes of flowers. 
The foHage of Joseph's Coat, A. tricolor is particularly 
attractive. They grow from three to six feet high. 

Aquilegia (Columbine). A hardy perennial having 
red, pink, blue or white flowers. The height varies 
according to the species, from almost no stem at all to 
two and one-half or three feet. They require Hght, 
sandy soil, that is moist but well drained, and a shel- 
tered situation that is exposed to the sun. Sow the 
seeds in the early summer for flowers next year. 

Argemone (Mexican, or Prickly Poppy). H. A. 
Mexicana has yellow flowers; Grandiflora, white; Platy- 
ceras white; the foliage is a glaucous green and very 
spiny. It requires a Hght sandy soil in a sunny situa- 
tion. Sow the seeds where the plants are to stand, or 
in pots to transplant. They cannot be successfully 
transplanted from seed-beds. 

Asperula odorata (Sweet Woodruff). H. P. Has 
fragrant flowers. Grow in clumps in the border or in 
a rockery. Grow in moist soil in a shaded place. There 
is an annual species, Orientalis, but which is catalogued 
as Setosa-azurea. 

Aster, China. H. H. A. An excellent bedding 
plant, but if the early kinds are used they must be 
replaced late in summer with other plants. Put wood- 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 2i 

ashes in the hole where the plants are set, and later 
water occasionally with tobacco water to kill the blue 
aphids on the roots. 

Aster Novae-Angliae. H. P. The best blue fall 
flower. Plant for mass effects, with dark background 
or as small clumps in borders. They can be easily 
propagated from seed or by division of the roots; the 
latter is the method usually pursued. 

Balloon Vine. H. H. A. The flowers of this are 
small. It is grown for its curious, inflated seed-pods. 
Grow on fences or trellises for screens. 

Balsam. T. A. Prefers a sunny situation and needs 
a rich, moist soil. The double or camellia-flowered va- 
rieties are best. Is best grown as clumps in the border. 

Bartonia. H. A. Sow seed where the plants are to 
stand. The flowers are two to two and one-half inches 
across. They are fragrant at night. The plants have 
rather a straggly habit. 

Beets. H. A. The ornamental-foHaged varieties 
are excellent as edgings to beds if they have a further 
edging of Golden Feather. The variegated foliage — 
red, yellow and green — make excellent mass effects. 

Black Dahlia. H. A. Bidens atrosanguinea of the 
trade. The flowers are showy, like coreopsis. It is 
better grown in clumps in the border. The tuberous 
roots can be stored over winter like the common dahlia 
root. 

Brachycome (Swan River Daisy). H. H. A. The 
flowers are one inch across. It is excellent for growing 



22 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

in clumps in the border. It can be used as an edging 
in borders. It is also useful as a pot plant. 

Cacalia (Emilia) (Tassel Flower). H. A. An easily 
grown plant, as it does well in any soil; has daisy-like 
flowers which are three inches across. 

Calandrina. H. A. This is an excellent plant for 
rockeries, as well as borders, and can be used for edg- 
ing. It prefers a sunny situation. The perennial 
species, Umbellata, can be treated as an annual. Full 
exposure to the sun and a light, sandy soil are necessary 
in order that the best results may be had. The flowers 
close at night. Can be propagated from seeds or cut- 
tings. 

Calendula. H. A. One of the easiest-grown an- 
nuals. Can be grown as a bedding plant, or as clumps 
in a border. It self-sows. The dried flower heads are 
used to flavor soups. 

Callirhoe. H. P. Will flower the first year from 
seed if started early. Very free-flowering, showy 
plants, that are best grown as clumps in the border. 

Campantila (Canterbury Bell). H. P. Best grown 
as clumps in the border. Seeds started one year will 
flower the next. Protect the young plants over 
the winter with dry leaves or in coldframes, if 
possible. 

Candytuft. H. A. One of the best plants for edg- 
ing, bedding, rockeries, or cut-flowers. There are sev- 
eral varieties that are fragrant; all are profuse bloom- 
ers. Make several sowings, to insure flowers until 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 23 

cold weather. It prefers a rich, moist soil and a sunny 
situation. 

Cannabis. H. H. A. Sow the seeds where the 
plants are to stand. Excellent for temporary screens 
and backs of borders. Quicker effects are obtained if 
the seeds are started indoors in pots. 

Cardinal Flower. II. P. Must be started in Feb- 
ruary to get flowers the same year. Thrives in any 
rich, moist, garden loam, or even in wet places where 
the water is not stagnant. Best grown in masses. 

Castor Beans. T. A. The seeds must be started in 
pots for the plant will not stand injury to its roots. Its 
chief use is as screens and as the center of tall beds, 
such as beds of cannas, and for some tropical effects. 

Catananche. H. P. It will flower the first year 
from seed if started early. The blue, daisy-like flowers 
are two inches across. Variety Alba has white flowers; 
Bicolor, blue with white edges. Is very free-flowering. 

Celosia. T. A. The chief attraction of the cox- 
comb is its well-formed flower-head. It is good for 
bedding, but not so much grown as formerly. Needs a 
rich, moist soil. Syringe it frequently for red spider. 
Ostrich Feather is another variety that grows rather 
tall; it has showy curled and curved plumes resembling 
ostrich feathers. 

Carnation, Marguerite. H. P. It is excellent as 
a bedding plant and needs no edging. Flowers in four 
months from seed. No use to try to hold plants over 
from one year to another. 



24 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

Centaurea. H. A. Grow in masses in the border, or 
in clumps about the house. Will bloom all summer if 
the old flowers are picked off. It self-sows. To get 
the earliest flowers, sow the seed in the fall where they 
are to grow. 

Centranthus. H. P. A much-neglected but very 
handsome old garden plant that blooms all summer. 
It makes an excellent cut-flower. 

Chrysanthemum. H. A. Not the fall-flowering 
kind. Very profuse blooming plants that commence 
blooming in the early summer and continue until fall. 
Very effective when grown in masses in large beds. 
Pinch back when the plants are small to make a bushy 
growth. 

Cleome. T. B. An excellent plant for sandy soil in 
sunny situations. They can be used the same as the 
castor-oil plant, to fill up large gaps in the borders. 
The flowers are borne in long spikes. 

Cobsaa. T. A. The seeds should be planted on 
edge. It is an excellent climber for trelHses, porches, 
and any unsightly objects. The flowers are large and 
bell-shaped. 

Collinsia. H. A. Very free-flowering. Can be sown 
in the autumn out-of-doors where they are to grow the 
following year, provided the soil is well drained. Pre- 
fers a rich, moist soil, and it has curious snapdragon-like 
flowers. 

Coreopsis (Tickseed). The annual kinds will flower 
ah summer if the old flowers are picked off. They are 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 25 

very showy. The perennial form, Lanceolata, is one 
of the best perennials we have. Both kinds are excel- 
lent as cut-flowers. 

Convolvulus. There are several forms, annual and 
perennial. Most of them are climbers. C. tricolor is a 
hardy annual growing only a foot high, which makes an 
excellent border for beds. Flowers open only in the 
sun. 

Cosmos. T. A. One of the most showy of the tall- 
growing annuals. The seeds must be started indoors 
to get early effects. It makes a fine pot-plant indoors 
for early fall flowers, after the frost has killed the plants 
growing in the open. Lady Lenox is the largest-flowered 
variety; five inches across. 

Dahlia. T. P. The dahlia does best during the cool 
weather. In most locaHties, if the plant is started early, 
it commences to flower during the hot summer weather, 
but the flowers are small. Late-started plants produce 
larger flowers. Stake the plants to prevent their being 
blown over by high winds. 

Dianthus. H. P. Blooms the first year from seed. 
Heddewigi is the earliest-blooming form. Best grown 
in clumps in borders or as edgings; are good cut-flowers. 

Digitalis. H. B. Plant in clumps or masses at back 
of border. The seeds will self-sow, which results in 
practically a permanent plantation. Protect the seed- 
lings over winter with dry leaves. 

Eschscholtzia. II. A. The seeds must be sown 
where the plants are to grow. Excellent for massing 



26 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

or as edgings to beds, for its glaucous foliage looks well 
all summer. 

Evening Primrose. H. B. Lamarckiana is the best 
form. The flowers open in the evening and are fragrant. 
They are four to five inches across. Acaulis is a good 
white variety. 

Flax. H. A. Grow in clumps in a sunny border. 
The flowers last only a day but they are borne 
in great profusion. Will succeed in a dry, sunny 
place. 

Four 0*clocks. H. A. A good bedding plant for 
sunny places. Also is a good edging for borders. 
Flowers open in the morning and late afternoon, but 
are closed during the middle of the day. 

Gaillardia. H. A. One of the showiest and most 
useful annuals, excellent for beds and needs no edgings 
in such cases. Plant for mass effects. Keep the old 
flowers cut off and the plants will stay in bloom all 
summer. 

Gilia. H. A. Very vigorous, free-flowering plants 
that are excellent for low masses, or as edgings, or to 
fill pockets in rockeries. The seeds should be sown 
where they are to grow. They will succeed in any soil. 
Tricolor is the best tall variety. 

Globe Amaranth. H. A. This is one of the so- 
called everlastings. It is excellent as a bedding plant, 
remaining in flower all summer. The flower-heads are 
about an inch across. It does best with a well-drained, 
sandy loam. 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 27 

Golden Tuft. H. P. Grow in clumps in the border 
or in the rockery. The flowers are produced in com- 
pact heads. 

Gourds. T. A. These are very useful for training 
over trelHses, porches, fences and unsightly objects. 
Has ornamental fruits of many shapes. Sow the seeds 
where the plants are to grow, or start them inside in 
pots, but be careful not to injure the roots when trans- 
planting. 

Gypsophila (Baby's Breath). H. A. The habit of 
all these plants is slender and airy, and still they make 
a rather compact, symmetrical growth. Elegans is 
most often grown for cutting. It is particularly useful 
for adding to bouquets of sweet peas. They prefer a 
rather dry soil, and are excellent for filUng in rockeries 
and underneath shrubberies in borders. 

Hawkweed. H. A. A showy annual for the garden 
but a bad weed in the lawn, so that its cultivation can 
hardly be recommended, although it is listed in some 
seed catalogues. 

Helianthus. H. A. Grow at the back of the bor- 
ders or in clumps to cover unsightly objects, such as 
fences. The seeds make excellent poultry food. 

Hibiscus. H. A. Very showy plant, the flowers 
being three and four inches across. Grow the plants as 
single specimens in the border. Moscheutos is a hardy 
perennial that does well in moist soils. 

Hollyhocks. H. P. Most effective when used in the 
back of the border. There is a disease which causes 



28 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

the leaves to wither and die but which can be held in 
check by spraying with Bordeaux mixture from the 
time the plants first appear above the ground. If 
planted behind shrubbery, any unsightliness from 
the Bordeaux or loss of leaves will be hid. 

Honesty. H. B. Will bloom the first year from 
seed if started early. It is a delightful, old-fashioned 
plant but seldom grown now. Its chief interest is in 
the large, flat pods which have broad satiny partitions 
which remain after the outside of the pod has dropped 
oil. 

Hop {Humulus Japonicus). H. A. A very quick- 
growing annual, excellent for covering porches, trel- 
lises, fences and unsightly places. The variety Varie- 
gatus has its leaves splashed with white. The seed often 
self-sows. 

Ipomoea. H. A. There are a great many varieties 
of morning glories; the moonflower and cypress vine 
are included under this head. They can be used to 
cover trellises, porches and any unsightly places, and 
can be trained almost anywhere on strings. They need 
a rich, moist soil. The Japanese strain has the largest 
flowers. 

Kochia (Summer Cypress). H. H. A. This plant 
is excellent as a dwarf hedge. In the fall, the light 
green foliage changes to a carmine or fiery red. It 
makes an excellent specimen plant. 

Larkspur. H. A. The seeds of this germinate very 
slowly. Although the plants have a rather straggly 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 29 

habit, they do not look badly when grown in masses. 
The flowers make excellent cut-flowers. 

Lobelia Erinus. T. A. A charming little plant that 
blooms very quickly from seed and will continue in 
flower all summer long. It is particularly useful as an 
edging to beds. There are red and white varieties in 
addition to the common blue-flowered form. 

Lupinus. H. A. Sow the seeds where the plants 
are to stand. Grow them as specimen plants or as 
clumps in a border. They are very showy. 

Madia. H. P. A very graceful plant with an open 
habit. It can be had in flower the first year from seed. 
When gro%vn in the sun the flowers open only in the 
morning and evening. Grow it in a shaded place. 

Marigolds. H. A. These showy annuals must be 
grown in a sunny place. They can be had in short or 
tall forms. The African marigold has the larger flower; 
French marigolds are short and small-flowered. The 
only objection to these plants is their odor, which some 
people do not like. 

Martyaia. H. H. A. A very interesting trailing 
plant. Its only excuse for being grown in the garden is 
its curious-shaped seed-pods, which make good pickles 
when young. 

Matthiola bicornis. H. H. A. Very straggly habit, 
and during the day the plant is unattractive, but at 
night the flowers open and are fragrant. Plant it near 
the porch or windows where the evenings are spent, 
that its fragrance may be enjoyed. 



30 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

Mignonette. T. A. The seeds must be sown where 
the plants are to grow as they will not permit of trans- 
planting. The plants are not showy, but the flowers 
are very fragrant. Make several sowings, to insure a 
supply in the garden all summer. 

Myosotis (Forget-me-not). H. P. This delightful 
little plant succeeds best in shady situations in rich, 
moist soil that is well drained. If the environment is 
congenial the plants will become established, making 
a permanent plantation. Otherwise, it will be hard 
to make it succeed. It can also be used as an edging for 
borders. It blooms during the cool weather; will bloom 
the first year from seed. 

Nasturtium. T. A. This plant will more fully re- 
pay one by its lavish profusion of flowers for the outlay 
of time and labor than any other annual. The tall va- 
rieties can be trained on strings or wire over trellises 
or porches, or they can be grown to cover rocks or un- 
sightly places. The dwarf forms make excellent edg- 
ings. The flowers are good for cutting; the seeds can 
be used to flavor pickles, or used as capers. 

Nicotiana. H. H. A. The flowering tobacco can 
be used as a bedding plant, either alone or in connec- 
tion with other plants. The flowers are fragrant at 
night. The plants will need staking to prevent high 
winds from blowing them over. 

Pansy. H. A. February-sown seed will bloom dur- 
ing the summer and fall. The plants flower best during 
the cool weather and are used chiefly to fill beds that 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 31 

will later contain tender bedding plants, such as gera- 
niums. 

Petunia. T. A. A bedding plant that grows as 
luxuriously as a weed, furnishing a profusion of flowers 
all summer. The flowers are large, three inches across, 
sometimes larger, and are fragrant. It can also be used 
for edging borders, for vases and window-boxes. 

Phlox. H. A. Produces dazzling effects when sown 
in masses. Can also be used for edging beds. Has a 
very compact habit, is a profuse bloomer, and will 
continue in flower all summer if the old flowers are 
removed. It is one of the best annuals we have. 

Poppy. H. A. To get the earhest flowers, sow the 
seeds in well-drained ground in the fall, or in the early 
spring, as soon as the ground is bare of snow. Make 
several successive sowings. The flowers are very large 
and can be had in single and double forms. Some of the 
double-flowered varieties are so full as to be a complete 
ball. They do best in a sandy loam. They are hard to 
transplant, and are not successful as cut-flowers. 

Poppy, Iceland. H. B. Can be had in flower the 
same year as sown. To carry them over the winter 
they must be sown in a well-drained location. As the 
plants are small they must be grown close together. 

Pyrethrum. H. P. They can be had in flower the 
first season if the seed is sown early. Tchihatchewii 
is an excellent variety for poor soil. The Golden 
Feather is a yellow-leaved variety which is much used 
as an edging in formal beds, and in carpet bedding. Its 



32 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

flowers are unimportant. It must be kept sheared to 
form. The taller varieties that usually go under this 
name, but which are really chrysanthemums, C. coc- 
cinium, have daisy-like flowers on long stems. They 
should be grown in clumps in the border. It is a good 
cut-flower. The flowers are sometimes four inches 
across. This is the plant which is meant when people 
talk about the pyrethrum. 

Portulaca. T. A. An excellent little succulent for 
growing in dry, sunny places. The flowers close at 
night. They open only in the sun. It is easily trans- 
planted and self-sown. There is no use of planting 
the seeds until the ground becomes warm for they will 
not germinate in cold ground. 

Salpiglossis. H. H. A. A very excellent annual for 
growing as cut-flowers. It bears beautiful, funnel- 
shaped flowers, having dark veins on a ground which 
varies from white to crimson, yellow and orange. It 
will grow in any soil but does particularly well in a 
light, sandy loam that is rich. It withstands drought. 

Salvia. T. A. The best scarlet flower for late sum- 
mer and fall. It is excellent as a bedding plant. Edge 
the beds with coleus or geraniums. It does particularly 
well in a light, sandy loam that is rich. There are 
several varieties which vary in height and in the shade 
of red. 

Scabiosa. H. H. A. A very attractive plant. The 
seeds are sown in May and the plants commence to 
flower in July and continue until frost. The flowers 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 33 

are small and are borne in large clusters on long, wiry 
stems. It can be grown either as clumps in borders 
or in masses. 

Silene. H. A. Bright-colored free-flowering annu- 
als that are excellent for use in the border or in the 
rockery. It prefers a light, sandy soil, with full expo- 
sure to the sun. 

Snapdragon. H. P. The peculiar shape of these 
flowers makes them very attractive. They will bloom 
the first year from seed. The flowers are borne in dense 
spikes that are produced all summer long. It is excel- 
lent as a bedding plant and as a good cut-flower, lasting 
well in water. 

Stocks. H. H. A. An excellent bedding plant, or 
it is good for clumps in the border. The flowers are 
fragrant. It is a good cut-flower, lasting well in water. 
The double varieties are best. The autumnal- or late- 
flowering sorts, which can be had in named varieties, 
are excellent for fall and winter culture in pots or in 
benches in the window garden or greenhouse. The seed 
is sown in the spring when all danger of frost is past 
and the plants transferred to the house on the approach 
of cold weather. 

Sweet Alyssum. H. A. One of the best annuals, 
good for growing in clumps in the border or as an edg- 
ing. Seeds sown out-of-doors in well-drained ground 
in the fall will bloom early the following summer and 
continue to flower until cold weather. 

Sweet Peas. H. A. To attain success with sweet 



34 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

peas the seed should be sown as early in the spring as 
the ground can be worked. In localities where the 
winter is not severe they can be sown in the fall. A 
deep, rich, moist soil is best suited to sweet peas. Late- 
planted seeds will not succeed so well, because the 
plants will not have become established and made much 
growth before hot weather sets in. Syringe the plants 
on clear days, striking the under side of the leaves with 
the water to dislodge the red spider. 

Sweet William. H. B. Blooms the first year if seed 
is sown early. Grows in clumps in the border, or as a 
bedding plant. To prolong the blooming season, re- 
move the old flowers. This is a splendid, old-fashioned 
plant which produces an abundance of beautifully 
colored, sweet-scented flowers. 

Venus* Looking Glass. H. H. A. A dainty Httle 
plant having bell-shaped flowers one inch across. It 
is excellent as an edging plant. It does not transplant 
well. 

Verbena. H. H. A. One of the best bedding plants 
and is also a good cut-flower. Fine varieties are per- 
petuated by cuttings. It is useful for beds, borders, 
mounds, vases and window-boxes. Plants raised from 
seed are stronger and produce more flowers than those 
raised from cuttings. It delights in a rich soil with full 
exposure to the sun. 

Zinnia. H. A. A very prim, formal-flowered plant 
that bears an abundance of bloom until freezing weather 
arrives. It does well in light soil, and is a good drought- 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 35 

resister, but is best when given rich soil. It can be 
used as a bedding plant, as clumps in borders, for edg- 
ings and low summer hedges. Some of the newer larger- 
flowering kind are much larger and better than the old- 
fashioned sort. 



HOW AND WHEN TO SPRAY 

The day has passed in which fruit trees or other plants 
bearing edible portions can be raised without attacks 
from insect enemies or plant diseases. A spraying out- 
fit is a necessity. In the following pages the more im- 
portant pests are mentioned, with the best means of 
holding them in check. 

FRUIT GARDEN PESTS 
Apple 

Aphis. — Small, green, soft-bodied insects on the un- 
der side of the leaves, appearing in April and May on 
the expanding buds. When present in large numbers, 
they cause the leaves to roll inward, making it hard to 
reach them by sprays. In that condition, the growth, 
with leaves, should be removed. To hold them in 
check, spray with kerosene emulsion (V) * or whale- 
oil soap (VI). They pass the winter in the egg stage, 
the eggs being laid on the twigs near the buds. The 
winter spraying with lime-sulphur wash (Xa) will kill 
the eggs. 

Canker-worm. — Measuring-worms, dull in color. 
More troublesome in New England and northward 

* The roman numerals refer to the formulas given on pages 77-82. 
36 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 37 

than South. They appear in April and May, eating 
the young foHage. Band the trees with a sticky sub- 
stance in February or March, to prevent the female 
from crawUng up the tree. Spray with arsenate of 
lead (I) as soon as the insects appear. Repeat in a 
day or two, if they were not all killed by the first spray. 
Thoroughly cultivate the ground in June and July, to 
break up the cells in which they pass the winter. 

Borer. — The grub of a beetle. The eggs are laid on 
the bark in June. The egg hatches and the grub mines 
the sapwood. Wash the trunk of the tree with carbolic 
soap (XII). Wrap the trunks in May, allowing the 
wrapping to stay on until December. Inject carbon 
bisulphide in the tunnels. 

Bud-worm, or Moth. — Small caterpillars mining 
in the buds. Spray with arsenate of lead (I) as the 
green leaves begin to show in the buds. Repeat just 
before the buds open, and again after the petals fall. 

Codling-moth. — ^The grub that makes wormy ap- 
ples. It enters the calyx, and lives on the core, after- 
ward eating its way out. Spray with arsenate of lead 
(I) as soon as petals fall; repeat in ten days. Pick up 
and destroy all fallen apples. Cultivate the acquaint- 
ance of, and protect the little woodpeckers, called sap- 
suckers; they eat them. Repeat the spraying in June 
for the second brood coming from your neighbors' trees. 

CuRCULio. — A snout beetle that punctures the skin, 
leaving crescent-shaped marks, and causing knotty 
growth in apples. Spray with arsenate of lead (I) as 



38 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

soon as the petals fall; repeat in ten days. Give a third 
spraying two weeks later. 

Case-bearer. — A small grub living in a cylindrical 
silk case. Spraying for the bud-worm will also exter- 
minate this pest. 

Oyster-shell Bark-louse. — ^A small sucking insect 
which protects itself by a brown oyster-shell-shaped 
case. Spray trees and shrubs, while dormant, with lime- 
sulphur wash (Xa) or with kerosene emulsion (V), or 
whale-oil soap (VI), in late May (about the 25 th) and 
early June. 

Railroad-worm. — ^This is the white grub infesting 
early summer apples. The best preventive is to pick 
up and destroy all windfalls. 

Red-humped Apple-worm. — Has a red head and a 
red hump on its back, body striped yellow and black. 
It appears in June and July, and strips the foliage from 
the ends of the limbs. Hand-pick, spray with arsenate 
of lead (I), kerosene emulsion (V), or whale-oil soap 
(Vic), when insects appear. 

Tent-caterpillar. — The insect that builds large 
webs in the early spring in apple and cherry trees. De- 
stroy the webs as soon as they appear. Best done in 
early morning or late evening when dew is on by rub- 
bing on and around the limbs and in the nest, a rag 
soaked in kerosene; or, spray the webs with kerosene. 

Woolly Aphis. — Small, soft-bodied insects, covered 
with a woolly, waxy covering. Present the year round 
on the roots, causing knots, and also on the trunk or 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 39 

limbs. Lift soil about trunk, and spread an inch of 
tobacco (IXa), putting the soil back again. Spray 
above ground, when present, with kerosene emulsion 
(V) or whale-oil soap (Vic). 

Bitter-rot. — ^A faint, light brown discoloration 
under the skin of the fruit, which later becomes dark 
brown. Appears in July and August. Winters in 
"cankers," which are rounded or oblong sooty — black, 
sunken spots. Cut off the canker spots. Spray with 
Bordeaux mixture (XVIII) or Ume-sulphur wash (X) 
once before buds open, and every two weeks in July, 
and until fruit is almost ripe. 

Rust. — Causes bright yellow spots on leaves and 
fruits. Appears in May and June. Spray with Bor- 
deaux mixture (XVIII) or lime-sulphur wash (Xb). As 
the "cedar apple," or knotty balls, on cedar trees, is 
one of the necessary forms in the life history of this 
fungus, they must be destroyed if growing near apple 
trees. 

Scab. — Brown spots upon the leaves, causing them 
to curl and to become torn; on the fruit, brown or black 
blotches, one-fourth to one-half inch in diameter. It 
sometimes kills the blossoms. Turn under, early in the 
spring, all fallen leaves. The fungus lives over winter 
on them. Spray with copper sulphate (XIII) or lime- 
sulphur wash (Xb) before the buds open. Repeat with 
lime-sulphur wash (Xc) or Bordeaux mixture (XVIII) 
when petals drop, and repeat twice at intervals of ten 
to fourteen days. 



40 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

San Jose Scale. — Grayish or blackish scales as big 
as a small pinhead, incrusting the branches and causing 
small reddish spots in the fruit. Will kill the tree. 
Prune the tree when dormant, cutting out the badly in- 
fested branches, and spray with lime-sulphur wash 
(Xa) or whale-oil soap (Via), and repeat the lime- 
sulphur spray as late as possible in the spring before 
the buds open. When young hatch, spray with ker- 
osene emulsion (V) or whale-oil soap (Vic). 

Blackberry, Dewberry, Raspberry 

Cane-borer, Cane-Maggot, Tree-cricket. — These 
bore into the cane, causing the tips to die back. They 
appear any time in the summer. The only remedy is 
to cut the cane back below the injury and destroy these 
prunings by fire. The punctures can be seen in winter 
when the foliage is off. 

Rose Scale. — A pure white, very conspicuous, nearly 
oval scale, about an eighth of an inch in diameter. Al- 
ways present. Remove and burn badly infested canes, 
and spray with kerosene emulsion (V) in May. 

Saw-fly, or Slug. — A little, light green caterpillar, 
or slug, with black spines, appearing in June, or early 
July, which eats round holes in the leaves, and finally 
defoliates the plants. Spray with arsenate of lead (I) 
when the leaves have expanded or when the insects 
appear, and repeat in a few days, or as may seem neces- 
sary. Dust with hellebore (IV). 

Anthracnose. — First small, and finally long, irregu- 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 41 

lar brown or purple spots on the young canes. Remove 
badly infested canes. Spray with copper sulphate 
(XIII) before the leaves appear, and, when young canes 
are six inches high, spray with Bordeaux mixture 
(XVIII), and repeat frequently until fruit is two- thirds 
grown. 

Root-knot or Crown-gall. — A knotty growth at 
the crown of the plant, i. e., at the base of the canes, 
which has hairy outgrowths. The only remedy is to 
dig out and burn infested plants. 

Rust. — A fine orange dust (spores) on the under- 
sides of the leaves in June. There is no remedy. Dig 
out and destroy infested plants, whether cultivated 
plants or wild ones, in the vicinity of the fruit garden. 

Cherry 

Aphis. — See under Peach. 
Slug. — Same as Pear-slug. 
CuRCULio. — Same as Plum-curculio. 
Black-knot. — See under Plum. 
Brown-rot. — See under Peach. 
Leaf-blight. — See under Plum. 

Currants 

Aphis. — A small yellow plant louse, appearing in 
May and found on the underside of the leaves, which 
causes galls on the leaves, and also curling of the leaves. 
Spray with kerosene emulsion (V) or whale-oil soap 
(Vic), when they first appear, and repeat in ten days. 



42 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

Currant-worms. — A light-green worm an inch long, 
with black spots, which appears in May or June; first, 
near the ground, and later further up on the plants, 
eating the leaves and often stripping a bush in a few 
days. Spray with arsenate of lead (I) as necessary. 
When fruit is half-grown, use hellebore (IV). 

Leaf-blight. — ^Appears in June or July in the form 
of round spots on leaves. Spray with ammoniacal cop- 
per carbonate (XIV) while the plants are in fruit, after- 
ward with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII). 

Gooseberry 

Currant- WORMS. — See Currant. 

Mildew. — Powdery appearance on the leaves of the 
young growth. Spray with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII) 
before the buds open. Afterward spray with potassium 
sulphide (XV) every ten days, or with ammoniacal 
copper carbonate (XIV). 

Four-lined Leaf-bug. — A small, yellow bug (three- 
eighths of an inch long) with four black stripes, appear 
in early summer, eating the leaves. It is hard to kill, 
needing strong kerosene emulsion (V). Dilute the stock 
solution only five times, as a weaker solution will fail. 
Pruning in winter will help, as the insect winters in the 
egg stage; burn the prunings. 

Borer. — Bores and girdles shoots. Cut them out in 
the spring after growth has started sufficiently to show 
which canes are dead. At any time during the summer, 
cut off wilted twigs. 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 43 

Currant Span-worm. — Bright yellow, one inch long, 
with white lines and numerous black spots, appearing 
in May or June. Let hens run among the bushes, or 
hand-pick. Rake up and burn in the fall all fallen leaves 
near bushes. Spray with arsenate of lead (I) before 
fruit is half-grown. 

Grape 

Grape Berry-moth. — A small grub mining in the 
fruits, which wither. They appear from June to August, 
and can be held in check by using arsenate of lead (I) 
in the Bordeaux mixture (XVIII) during spring spray- 
ing. 

Caterpillars. — There are several forms of larvae 
which feed upon the grape leaves, which can be held 
in check by spraying with arsenate of lead (I) in Bor- 
deaux mixture as the buds are opening. 

Grape Curculio. — A snout beetle which punctures 
a hole in the grape and deposits an egg, leaving a brown 
spot, which, in the case of dark-colored grapes, turns 
to a purplish area; or the whole grape may color pre- 
maturely. They appear in July or August. Spray with 
arsenate of lead (I) once a week, late in June and in 
July. Bag the grapes. This latter is absolute insurance 
against loss. 

Flea-beetle. — A small steel-blue insect, which, both 
as a beetle and as a grub, feeds upon the leaf of the 
grape. Spray with arsenate of lead (I) as the buds be- 
gin to swell. 



44 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

Leaf-hopper. — One-eighth of an inch long, and pret- 
tily marked with green, rosy-red, and yellow, appearing 
in August. Spray with kerosene emulsion (V) and 
catch on sticky shields. 

Phylloxera. — An aphis which lives on the roots of 
the grape. Does but little damage to American grapes, 
but the European or vinifera varieties succumb. To 
kill, inject bisulphide of carbon into the soil about the 
roots. 

Root-worm. — A bluish grub, or worm, with four 
black stripes and four light stripes. Inject carbon 
bisulphide into the ground about the roots. Spray 
leaves, when the moth is found, as for flea-beetle. 

Grape-root Borer. — A worm one and one-half to 
one and three-fourths inches long, which bores into the 
roots. Dig them out. As a preventive, bank soil about 
the cane. 

Rose-chafer. — Spray with arsenate of lead (one 
pound to five gallons) before they arrive in June. 

Grape-cane Borer. — A brown beetle will be found 
m the grape twig, which suddenly wilts and breaks off 
in the spring. It is especially bad in the South. Cut 
off and burn all injured shoots, and also diseased wood 
and rubbish about the vines. 

Anthracnose. — Deep pits and scars on the canes, 
and discolored leaves. Spray with copper sulphate, six 
and one-half ounces to five gallons, before the buds 
open. 

Black-rot. — A fungus which attacks the full-grown 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 45 

berries, which become shriveled and black. Bag the 
grapes. Spray with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII), com- 
mencing as soon as fruit sets, and giving from three to 
six more applications. Burn all diseased prunings, rot- 
ten fruit, etc. 

Downy Mildew. — Brown downy patches on the 
under side of the leaves, rotting, turning brown or 
gray. Spray with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII) as for 
black-rot. 

Powdery Mildew. — Dull white powdery patches on 
the leaves. Treat as for black-rot. 

Peach 

Aphis. — Black aphids which live on the under side 
of the leaves, causing them to curl. They are worst in 
May and June. Spray with kerosene emulsion (V), 
whale-oil soap (Vic), or with tobacco (IXb), before 
leaves curl. When leaves have curled, the only remedy 
is to cut all twigs with curled leaves. 

Borer. — A soft, white-bodied grub, having a reddish 
brown head, which hatches from eggs laid upon the 
bark of the trunk, at or near the surface of the soil, 
during the summer months. They burrow through the 
inner bark and sap-wood of the trunk and larger roots. 
I. Dig them out in fall and spring, using a sharp knife, 
and always cutting with the grain of the wood, never 
across the grain. 2. Make a mound of earth about the 
trunk of the tree June first, leaving it until September 
first. 3. Wrap the trunk with paper and other material, 



46 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

paint trunk with carbolic soap (XII) or with residue of 
lime-sulphur wash, to prevent egg-laying. 

CuRCULio. — See under Plum. 

Brown-rot. — The fruit turns brown and dries up. 
These are mummies and hang on all winter. The fun- 
gus also attacks the flowers and growing twigs, killing 
them. Spray with copper sulphate (XIII) just before 
the buds open, and with lime-sulphur wash (Xld) every 
two weeks until fruit is nearly grown. 

Peach-leaf Curl. — The leaves have yellow or red 
blotches and curl up. Spraying with lime-sulphur 
wash (XIa) before the buds open will prevent it. 

Peach Rosette and Yellows. — No known remedy. 
Dig out and burn at once all infested trees. 

Pear 

Codling-moth. — See under Apple. 

Midge. — A very small fly, which appears when the 
first buds of spring open. It lays its eggs in the flowers 
as soon as they show white. The larvae work their way 
into the ovule, or seed capsule, causing the fruit, when 
it is the size of a nut, to stop growth. The fruit is ir- 
regular in shape, knotty, and the center full of small 
yellow larvae. They drop in June. Plant a catch-crop 
of the Lawrence pear, a variety of which it is especially 
fond. Sow Kainit one thousand pounds to the acre, 
between the middle and end of June; or work an abun- 
dance of powdered tobacco (IXa) into the soil at this 
same time, for then the larvae are making their way from 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 47 

the fallen cracked fruit into the ground. If a few Law- 
rence pear trees are planted as a catch-crop, the other 
trees will be practically free from this insect. 

Borer. — Rarely present in large numbers. Larvas 
similar to peach borer. Paint trunks with carbolic 
soap (XII). 

Pear-leaf Mite. — Small reddish spots appear on 
the upper surface of the leaves, or before they have fully 
expanded in spring, which later become black, the tis- 
sues of the leaf drying. It is caused by a small creature 
similar to the red spider found on house-plants and in 
greenhouses. Spray in winter or spring, before buds 
open, with kerosene emulsion (V), diluting the stock 
solution with only five to seven parts of water. 

Pear-tree Psylla. — A small jumping louse one- 
tenth of an inch long. There are two forms, dark and 
light. The dark form spends the winter in the crevices 
of the bark, coming out in spring, laying eggs which 
hatch into worms, or larvae, that suck the sap from the 
leaves, and exude a honey dew. They are present all 
summer, but are worst in July and August. Spray 
with lime-sulphur (Xa); or kerosene emulsion (V), 
diluted only five to seven times, when the tree is 
dormant; and with whale-oil soap (VIb) in April. 

Pear-slug. — A greenish-black, slimy slug one-half 
of an inch long, appearing in June and July, eating the 
skin of the leaves. Spray as soon as they appear with 
arsenate of lead (I), pyrethrum (VII), or hellebore 
(IV). 



48 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

Fire-blight, or Twig-blight. — The foliage on the 
twigs turns brown or black. The dead leaves do not 
drop. Cut off below injury, burning the prunings. 

Leaf-blight, or Spot. — Reddish-brown spots on the 
leaves, which later run together, and finally the leaves 
drop. The fruits have small black spots, which may 
cause it to crack open. Spray with Bordeaux mixture 
(XVIII) or with lime-sulphur wash (Xb), as for scale. 

Rust. — See under Apple. 

Scab. — See under Apple. 

Plum 

Aphis. — See under Peach. 

Curculio. — The worst enemy of plums and cherries, 
and is destructive to peaches. The beetle has a long 
snout with which it pierces the young fruit just after 
the petals drop (May, June), leaving crescent-shaped 
scars in which are deposited eggs. These hatch, the 
grub eating toward the stone. It causes the fruit to 
drop, usually when only half-grown. If older, the fruit 
has a drop of gum over the puncture. Spray with 
arsenate of lead (I). It is important to destroy this 
pest, as it helps to disseminate brown-rot. 

Leucanium, or Plum-scale. — A dark brown hemi- 
spherical scale, one-eighth of an inch long, which sucks 
the plant juices. Spray with lime-sulphur wash (Xa) 
when the trees are dormant. Two sprayings during the 
winter are necessary. 

Brown-rot. — See under Peach. 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 49 

Black-knot. — Black, knotty swellings on the twigs 
and smaller limbs, that are caused by a fungus. Can 
be controlled by spraying with Bordeaux mixture 
(XVIII), but it is much better handled by cutting out 
all infested branches, before March first, as the spores 
ripen during the winter and spread in early spring. 
Burn at once all prunings. 

Shot-hole Fungus. — Small, round, purple or brown 
spots, which later drop out, leaving the leaves full of 
holes. Often the leaves turn yellow and drop by mid- 
summer. Easily controlled by spraying with lime- 
sulphur wash (Xa), copper sulphate (XIII) before the 
leaves appear, and lime-sulphur wash (Xd) or Bordeaux 
mixture (XVIII) when the leaves first appear, and re- 
peat every two or three weeks, until the fruit is three- 
quarters grown. 

Quince. See under Apple and Pear for insects and 
diseases. 

Strawberry 

Leaf-roller. — A small, brownish caterpillar, ap- 
pearing in late May or early June, that folds the leaflets 
by bringing the upper surfaces together and fastening 
them. They eat the leaves, which then turn brown. 
The best method of destroying the pest is to mow and 
burn the leaves after the fruit has been gathered. 

Root- APHIS. — ^These grow on the roots, and are 
bluish in color. Clean plants only should be set. In- 
fested plants can be cleaned before setting by fumigat- 



50 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

ing with tobacco (IXc), dipping them in tobacco juice, 
(IXb), or stirring into the ground around infested 
plants tobacco dust (IXa). 

Saw-ply. — Give the same treatment as for raspberr}^ 
saw-fly. 

Weevil. — A small black-snout beetle similar to the 
curculio, which deposits its eggs in the buds, and then 
partly gnaws off the stems below the buds, causing 
them to wilt. No remedy. Pick off and burn drooping 
flower stalks. 

Leaf-blight, Leaf-spot, or Rust. — Reddish or 
purplish spots on the leaves. Spray with Bordeaux 
mixture (XVIII). Removing the leaves, as advised 
for the leaf roller, helps to diminish this pest. 

IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

All Vegetables 

Aphis. — Small black, red or green sucking insects, as 
big as a pin-head, usually the underside of the leaves. 
Spray with whale-oil soap (Vic), tobacco water (IXb), 
or kerosene emulsion (V). 

Cutworms. — Soft-bodied, hairless grubs, living in 
the ground during the day and foraging at night. They 
vary in color from black to white, and are particularly 
harmful in March, April and May. They cut off the 
plants at the surface of the ground, i. Use poisoned 
bran mash (III), putting around a few days before 
planting, or protect the plants by placing a ring of the 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 51 

mash around each plant. 2. Wrap brown or manila 
paper about each plant before planting, letting the 
paper extend one and one-half inches above and below 
the ground. The paper will last long enough for the 
plants' stems to become tough enough not to be good 
cutworm food. 

WiREWORMS. — Long, slender, cylindrical worms, 
with hard, shiny, smooth, yellow bodies, having three 
pairs of legs close to the head. They do much damage 
in April and May by boring into seeds, eating the surface 
of root-crops, and cutting the tops of such crops as they 
appear above ground. Scatter poisoned slices of po- 
tatoes about field known to be infested, and cover with 
boards. Soak corn in solution of strychnine and sow 
over field two weeks before planting. 

Flea-beetles. — Small, black, shiny beetles, as big 
as a pinhead, that jump about like fleas. Although a 
fungicide, the best remedy is to coat the plants with 
Bordeaux mixture (XVIII). These are particularly 
bad on potatoes and tomatoes. 

Asparagus 

Asparagus Beetle. — A slender beetle, one-quarter 
of an inch long, blue-black, with yellow spots on back. 
Both the beetle and its grub (young) attack the tender 
shoots, eating holes in them, and the beetle lays rows of 
dark eggs upon the stalks. The larvae can be killed by 
dusting fresh air-slaked lime on the plants in the early 
morning while the dew is on. 



52 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

Rust. — Blister-like spots on the skin of the stem, 
under which are the brown spores. It causes the plants 
to have the appearance of maturing early. Cut ofl and 
burn all infested stalks in the fall, and in August spray 
three times, ten days apart, with Bordeaux mixture 
(XVIII). 

Bean 

Seed-corn Maggot. — ^A small grub which scrapes 
and eats seeds, sprouts, and underground stems. Soak 
the ground, as soon as injury is apparent, with helle- 
bore, two ounces to one gallon of water. 

Weevil. — A small brownish gray or olive snout- 
beetle. Throw bean seed lightly into water; those so 
badly damaged as to be useless will float. Burn them. 
Dry the balance, and sow at once. 

Anthracnose, or Podspot. — Affects leaves, stems 
and pods, causing unsightly sunken spots. Soak bean 
seeds one to two hours in ammoniacal copper carbonate 
(XIV) before planting. Spray the young plants, when 
they are two to three inches high, with Bordeaux mix- 
ture (XVIII). Repeat in ten days, and again as soon 
as the plants have flowered. By selecting your own 
seed from pods which are not infested, you can largely 
avoid this disease. 

Blight. — ^Attacks lima, as well as common beans. It 
appears on all parts of the plants; small yellowish spots, 
increasing in size, and which later turn brown. The 
disease can easily be told from anthracnose, as the spots 



THE SUBURBx\N GARDEN GUIDE 53 

are not siuikcn. It Is less prevalent on fresh land. 
Burn, in the fall, all bean vines, as the bacteria live over 
winter on the vines. Keep the plants free from insects; 
they help to spread the disease. 

Downy Mildew. — Downy patches on the leaves, 
that are very destructive at times. Spraying with Bor- 
deaux mixture (XVIII), as suggested for anthracnose, 
will prevent it. 

Beets 

Plant-bugs. — A flattened, sucking bug, one-fourth 
of an inch long; brown, with yellow and black markings. 
These hibernate under grass and rubbish. Burn all 
rubbish about garden. Spray with kerosene emul- 
sion (V). 

Leaf-spot. — A leaf-spot fungus attacks the leaves, 
causing them to drop prematurely. Spray with Bor- 
deaux mixture (XVIII) every two weeks. 

Scab. — Same as potato scab. Do not grow beets on 
land that has grown scabby beets or potatoes. 

Cabbage and Cauliflower 

Cabbage-looper. — A green worm, one to one and 
one-fourth inches long, lined with white, which loops 
like a span-worm. Give same treatment as for cabbage- 
worm. 

Cabbage-maggot. — A small white maggot, one- 
third of an inch long. Sometimes two or three work on 
the same root. Spread a tablespoonful of tobacco dust 



54 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

(IXa) about each plant, when planting; renew it once 
a week for three weeks. 

Cabbage Plusia. — A dark gray moth, deposits pale 
greenish yellow eggs, singly or in clusters, on the upper 
surface (usually) of cabbage leaves. These hatch, and 
the resulting pale green grubs are, when mature, an 
inch long. They bore holes in the cabbage head. Spray 
with kerosene emulsion (V), adding, if necessary, resin 
soap (II) to make it stick. Dust with pyrethrum (VII), 
adding, for convenience of handling, two parts of 
flour. 

Cabbage-worm. — Velvety green caterpillar, more 
than one inch long when mature. Present from 
planting-time on, and damages plants by eating holes 
in the leaves. Spray with arsenate of lead (I), to 
which has been added resin-soap (II). After heading 
commences, use hellebore (IV). 

Harlequin Bug. — One of the "stink" bugs. Shiny 
black, or dark blue, with red or yellow spots. It sucks 
the sap. Present in numbers in April and May. Plant 
a trap-crop of mustard, radish or rape, a few days before 
planting the crop, and, when the bugs have collected 
on them, spray with pure kerosene or kerosene emul- 
sion (V), stock solution, diluted with four parts of 
water. 

Brown- or Black-rot. — This dwarfs the heads or 
makes them one-sided, and, in cases of early infection, 
there may be no head at all. Upon examination of the 
stumps of affected plants, a brown or black ring will 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 55 

be observed, corresponding to the woody part of the 
stem. There is no remedy, preventive measures only 
can be used. Plant only on clean land and from unin- 
fested seed-beds; avoid a succession of cruciferous 
crops on the same land. Remove at once, and destroy 
badly infested plants and leaves. 

Club-root. — Knotty, twisted root growths which 
stunt the development of the head. It is caused by a 
slime mold. Rotate the crops, never growing crucif- 
erous crops twice in succession on the same land. Give 
land on which these crops are to be grown a dressing of 
fresh stone lime and sulphur (Vllld), using two bushels 
to a piece of land twenty-five by fifty feet (or seventy- 
five to eighty bushels per acre). 

Celery 

Celery Caterpillar. — A handsome and conspicu- 
ous caterpillar which feeds upon the leaves. They are 
about two inches long, and bright green with broken 
black bands. Spray with arsenate of lead (I) when the 
plants are small. Hand-pick. Poultry and birds will 
not eat them, probably because of the offensive odor 
they emit. 

Leaf-spot or Blight. — Rusty, brown spots on the 
leaves of celery, appearing in June and July. It can 
be held in check by spraying with Bordeaux mixture 
(XVIII) every ten days until the plants are well ad- 
vanced, when ammoniacal copper carbonate (XIII) 
should be used, to prevent spotting. 



56 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

Corn 

Corn-ear Worm. — Green worms which, when full- 
grown, are an inch long. They feed upon the kernels. 
Hand-picking is the best remedy, and it can be greatly 
helped by fall plowing. 

Corn-root Aphis. — Root aphis fostered by ants. 
They can be largely reduced by plowing corn-fields in 
late fall. Frequent cultivation with cultivator or disk 
harrow will also help. Treating the seed-corn with the 
following is also recommended. One gallon wood al- 
cohol, one pint oil of lemon. Thoroughly mix and 
sprinkle three ounces or six tablespoonfuls over four 
quarts of seed, before planting. 

Smut. — Black, sooty growth on the ears. No rem- 
edy; pull out all infested plants. 

Cucumber, Pumpkin, Squash, Melon 

Melon-louse. — A greenish black plant louse with 
or without wings, that suck the sap. They are present 
from early spring. Spray with kerosene emulsion (V) 
made of whale-oil soap instead of hard soap, and dilute 
twelve to fifteen times. Be sure to get it on the under 
side of the leaves. 

Squash-bug. — A rusty, black, flattened bug, half 
an inch long, that sucks the plant juices. It has a re- 
pulsive, buggy odor. They winter-over under boards, 
leaves, etc., appearing in late spring or early summer. 
Hand-pick during the cooler part of the day when they 
are sluggish, dropping them into a can containing ker- 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 57 

osene. In the fall, thousands can be slaughtered by 
laying shingles or small boards about the garden. The 
bugs will gather on the underside to pass the cool 
nights, and from these traps early morning collections 
may be made. 

Striped Cucumber-beetle. — A beetle, one-fifth of 
an inch long, straw yellow in color with three black 
stripes on the back. They gnaw the skin of the stem 
and eat holes in the leaves of young plants. Protect 
by shallow frames covered with mosquito netting. 
Sprinkle tobacco dust (IXa) on the leaves while the 
dew is on. Spray with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII) 
containing arsenate of lead. 

Anthracnose. — Causes circular dead spots in the 
leaves, one-fourth of an inch in diameter. Use Bor- 
deaux mixture (XVIII). This can be checked after it 
appears. 

Downy Mildew. — Appears late in July or in early 
August. It causes angular yellow spots on the leaves, 
later the whole leaf turns yellow and dies. Commence 
spraying about July 20 with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII), 
and repeat every seven to nine days. 

Leaf-blight. — More particularly destructive to 
melons. Large dead areas are noticed on the leaves, 
which can be told from downy mildew by the tendency 
to break out, leaving holes. Spraying with Bordeaux 
mixture (XVIII), as for downy mildew, will hold it in 
check for a time at least. Repeat every seven to nine 
days, and be thorough. 



58 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

Lettuce 

Lettuce-rot. — Caused by a rot fungus, and is more 
frequent indoors than out. The plants rot off at the 
surface, and the central portion of heading varieties 
becomes attacked. Sterilize the soil with steam. Main- 
tain a temperature of less than 50° Fahr. at night; too 
high a temperature helps to induce rot. Ventilate the 
house thoroughly at all times. Burn all infested por- 
tions of the plants. 

Onions 

Black Onion-fly. — A white maggot, a little larger 
than the onion maggot, that feeds on stored as well as 
growing onions. Fumigate stored onions with bisul- 
phide of carbon for forty-eight hours, using one pound 
of liquid to one hundred cubic feet of space to be 
treated. 

Onion-maggot. — ^The maggot (grub) of a small fly, 
resembling the house-fly. The egg is laid on the young 
plants early in the season, and the grub eats into the 
bulb. The treatment for cabbage maggots helps. 
Kerosene-soaked sand placed about the plant also 
helps. Fertilize freely, to stimulate a strong growth. 

Thrips. — Small (one- twentieth of an inch long), ac- 
tive, yellowish-winged insects, that jump like fleas, 
and feed on the skin of the leaves. Clean away all 
weeds from about the garden, before planting. Spray 
frequently, when insects are found to be present, with 
kerosene emulsion (V) or tobacco water (IXb). 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 59 

Smut. — ^A very bad fungus that attacks the plants 
when they are very young. It appears in the form of a 
black, dusty powder on various parts of the plant. 
Onions started in sterile soil, and transplanted outdoors 
later, will not be attacked. Where seeds must be 
planted outdoors in infected soil, sow flowers of sulphur 
in the rows, or put a dripper attachment on the drilling 
machine and drip a formaldehyde solution in the rows. 
Use one pound forty per cent formaldehyde to twenty- 
five to thirty-three gallons of water, and use fifteen gal- 
lons of the solution to a lot twenty-five by fifty feet 
(five hundred to seven hundred gallons to the acre). 

Pea 

Pea-louse, or Aphis. — Pea-green in color and one- 
fourth of an inch long. They usually are found clus- 
tered about the young growth, sucking the sap. Spray 
frequently with kerosene emulsion (V). 

Powdery Mildew. — A whitish, powdery coating on 
the leaves and stems; also sometimes dark pin-head 
spots may be noticed in these white coverings. Spray 
with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII), to which resin-soap 
(II) should be added to make it stick. One to two 
sprayings will be sufficient. 

Potato 

Potato-beetle. — A hemispherical beetle, three- 
eighths of an inch long. Light yellow in color with ten 
black stripes. The slugs are round, red, soft-bodied, 



6o THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

with black dots. They are present all summer and eat 
the foliage. Spray every ten days or two weeks with 
arsenate of lead (I). It can be added to the Bordeaux 
mixture used to spray for blight. 

Potato-blight, Early and Late. — Leaves become 
black and die. They usually have a whitish fungous 
growth on the underside. The late fungus causes the 
wet rot of stored potatoes. Spray every two weeks with 
Bordeaux mixture (XVIII). The arsenate of lead for 
the bugs can be added to this, and the two sprays made 
at once. Air-slaked lime in the bins among the potatoes 
will help to check the wet rot of stored potatoes. 

Scab. — Causes the dark, scabby spots on the skins 
of the potatoes. Plant clean seed, and avoid the use of 
stable manure on the land. Soak the seed (cut tubers) 
two hours in formaldehyde (XVI), or one and one-half 
hours in corrosive sublimate (XVII). 

Squash, Pumpkins 

Squash- VINE Borer. — A white grub, one inch long 
when full-grown, that bores in the stem down into the 
root. The borer can usually be found near the level of 
the soil. Plant as early as possible, between what will 
be the rows of the main crop, a trap-crop of summer 
squashes on the ground where the main crop is to be 
grown, and destroy them later. Cover several places 
on the stems with soil, so that they can root, so as to be 
sure that the plants will grow even though the borer 
does injury to the root. 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 6i 

Sweet Potato 

Tortoise-beetle. — Somewhat resembles the lady- 
beetle in size, and shape; in color they resemble bur- 
nished gold. They eat holes in the leaves. Spray with 
arsenate of lead (I) if injury threatens to become serious. 

Tomato 

Tomato-worm, or Horn-worm. — The caterpillar of 
a sphinx moth. A light-green worm having whitish 
oblique stripes, which when full-grown is three inches 
long and as thick as a man's finger. It eats the foliage. 
Hand-picking is the best remedy in the small garden. 

Blossom-drop. — The flowers drop off before becom- 
ing fertilized. The common cause of this is too rich a 
ground or too much water, either of which causes too 
luxuriant a growth. Avoid heavy applications of ni- 
trogenous manures and cultivate thoroughly. 

Leaf-spot, or Leaf-blight. — Small whitish round 
spots on the leaves, which can be prevented by three or 
four sprayings with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII). 

IN THE FLOWER GARDEN 

All Plants Indoors 

Red-spider. — Very small red mites living on the 
under sides of the leaves and protecting themselves by 
a web. They are not troublesome in humid atmosphere 
but thrive in arid conditions. They are particularly 
troublesome in greenhouses in very cold weather. The 



62 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

best remedy is clean water syringed on the plants, strik- 
ing the under side of the leaves with considerable force, 
to knock them off. 

White-fly. — A minute white fly which lays its eggs 
on tomato and other plants. The larvse suck the plant 
juices and exude a ''honey dew." On this honey dew 
there lives a mold. Fumigating with tobacco regularly 
will usually hold these in check if the houses are free 
from them in the fall, but, once they get bad, the only 
remedy is to fumigate with hydrocyanic acid gas, and, 
as this is an extremely poisonous article, its use is not 
advised except by those competent to handle it. Its 
effect on plants is different; some can stand a strong 
gas, while others are injured by it. 

Barberry 

Rust. — While not particularly destructive to the bar- 
berry itself, the plant acts as a host for one form of the 
wheat rust. Do not have barberries growing near 
wheat fields. 

Carnation 

Aphis. — Pale-green plant-lice or aphis found on the 
stems and leaves sucking the plant's sap. Fumigate 
the greenhouse regularly — twice a week, two evenings 
in succession — with tobacco (IXc) or any of the to- 
bacco compounds now on the market. Syringe the 
plants the morning after, to knock off dead and 
stunned aphis. 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 63 

Antkracnose. — Grayish brown sunken spots on the 
leaves. Spray the plants with ammoniacal copper car- 
bonate solution (XIV) frequently. Maintain good 
growing conditions at all times. 

Rust. — An exceedingly serious carnation disease. 
Little blisters which open, giving off reddish brown 
spores. The treatment is more preventive than cura- 
tive. Spray the plants every week or ten days with 
ammoniacal copper carbonate (XIV). Keep the 
plants in good condition; avoid checks of any sort. 
Syringe the plants in the morning only, so that the 
leaves will be dry by nightfall. Pick off all diseased 
leaves. 

Chrysanthemum 

Aphis. — Black plant-lice living on the under side of 
the leaves, sucking sap. Fumigate with tobacco (IXc) 
twice a week, as directed for carnation aphis. Do not 
fumigate after the buds have shown color. 

Leaf-spot. — Brown or black spots on the leaves, 
appearing in September. They grow larger, causing the 
leaf to drop off. Spray with ammoniacal copper car- 
bonate (XIV) every ten days or two weeks; keep the 
greenhouse well ventilated. On dull days in the early 
fall, have a little fire heat in the house and ventilate the 
house. 

Powdery Mildew. — A powdery white growth on the 
leaves, which can be held in check by dusting the leaves 
with flowers of sulphur (VIIIc). It will not occur if 



64 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

good ventilation is always maintained and there are no 
checks given the plants. 

Dahlia 

Tarnished Plant-bugs. — The same as infests the 
strawberry. The second brood appears in July and 
August on dahlias, asters, simflowers, and other fall 
flowers. Hand-pick; dust plants with pyre thrum 
powder (VII) or spray with kerosene emulsion (V). 

Hollyhock 

Rust. — The fungus will be recognized by dense yel- 
lowish or brownish dusty spots on the underside of the 
leaves. It is a serious disease. Spray the plants every 
ten days or two weeks with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII) 
from the time the leaves show above ground until they 
are about to flower. Continue after the plants are 
through flowering. 

House Plants 

Aphis. — The same as described for carnations and 
chrysanthemums. In the house, spray with soapsuds; 
this is the easiest and cleanest way of fighting the pest. 

Mealy-bugs. — Soft-bodied insects that protect them- 
selves with a sort of woolly wax. They are more partial 
to coleus, but infest other house-plants. Drop one 
drop of kerosene oil or alcohol on each insect by using 
a wooden toothpick. 

Nematodes. — A parasitic worm infesting roses, be- 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 65 

gonias, and sometimes other plants. They cause small 
bead-like galls upon the roots. The leaves dry up. 
There is no remedy. Destroy plants growing in in- 
fested soil, and the soil too. Use fresh soil, potting 
plants next winter. 

Scale Insects. — There are several small scale in- 
sects infesting house-plants. One is small, round and 
white; the other is a brown, hemispherical one, like the 
plum scale. These can be cleaned off by rubbing with 
a sponge, the more obstinate ones by scratching with 
the finger-nail. 

Morning-Glory 

Tortoise-beetle. — The same as on the sweet po- 
tato. 

Leaf-cutter. — A yellowish green caterpillar with 
black spots, about three inches long. Spray with 
arsenate of lead (I). 

Pelargonium, Geranium 

Dropsy. — Dead spots on the leaves which, before 
they die, will have wet-looking places on the underside 
of the leaf, which appear translucent when held between 
the observer and the light. This is caused by too much 
water in the soil. 

Rose 

Aphis. — Same as carnation aphis. 

Leaf-hopper. — A small greenish bug, which jumps 



66 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

around lively and sucks the foliage. Spray with ker- 
osene emulsion (V). 

Rose-chafer. — The brown beetle found eating the 
rose flowers and buds. Hand-picking is the best, but 
spraying with arsenate of lead (I), one-half pound to 
five gallons of water, will help to hold them in check. 
They appear in June and are worst on sandy soils. 

Nematodes. — See under House-plants. 

Rose-scale. — See description under Raspberry. 

Slugs. — A green slug, or worm, which appears late 
in May, eating holes in the leaves. Spray with arsenate 
of lead (I), or a simpler plan, where there is water under 
pressure, is to syringe the bushes with water, knocking 
them off. 

Black-spot. — This is particularly bad on roses grown 
indoors. There are black spots a quarter of an inch or 
more in diameter, which cause the leaves to sicken, 
turning yellow and later dropping off. Spray with am- 
moniacal copper carbonate (XIV) once a week. 

Mildew. — Powdery growth on the leaves, the edges 
also curl up and the leaves become crinkly. It is caused 
by poor cultural conditions — house too cool, or draughts 
strike the plant. Dust flowers of sulphur (VIIIc) over 
the leaves, or moisten with water (Vlllb) and put it on 
the heating-pipes. 

Snapdragon 

Anthracnose. — Brown spots on the leaves. It some- 
times kills the plants. Spray with Bordeaux mixture 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 67 

(XVIII) when the spots are first noticed, and give one 
or two subsequent sprayings a week or ten days apart. 

Sweet-Pea 

Aphis. — See under Pea. 

Tomato 

Point-rot. — This is more troublesome on tomatoes 
growing in greenhouses. A black rot occurs at the point 
where the flower was attached. This is caused by dry- 
ness. It will be particularly bad on benches where the 
pipes are near the bottom of the benches and the soil 
thin. 

Violet 

Aphis. — On the violet they are brown, and infest the 
crown of the plant as well as the stems and underside 
of the leaves. Spray with tobacco (IXb) or fumigate 
with tobacco (IXc), or spray with whale-oil soap (Vic). 

Cutworm. — These cut off and eat the leaves. Poi- 
soned bran mash (III) is effective. Do not use fresh 
soil in the benches or frames for growing violets. If 
it must be used, treat it as follows: Add tankage to the 
soil at the rate of forty pounds to the cubic yard, and 
pile it up and let it stand. It will generate heat suffi- 
cient to kill all the grubs. Let it stand until cool before 
using. 

Saw-fly. — ^A dull, olive grub that eats the surface 
of the leaves. Spray with arsenate of lead (I) or fumi- 
gate with tobacco (IXc) . 



68 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

Leat-tyer. — A small green worm, eating the leaf, 
that can be held in check in the same way as the slug of 
the saw-fly. 

Leaf-spot, Leaf-blight. — Round white aphis with 
black outer wings, the whole one-eighth of an inch in 
diameter. First pick off all infested leaves. Spray 
with Bordeaux mixture (XVIII) or, if the plants are in 
flower, with ammoniacal copper carbonate (XIV). 

ALL INSECTS DESTROYING TREES AND 
SHRUBS 

The Brown-tailed Moth is a serious pest in the 
New England states. This pest winters over in the 
caterpillar stage in nests made of leaves. Cut off all 
these and burn them. The full-grown caterpillar is 
about two inches long, reddish brown in color, with a 
broken white stripe on each side, and two red dots on 
the back near the rear. These can be killed by spraying 
the trees with arsenate of lead (I) . 

The Bag-worm. — You can see this in winter; nu- 
merous dark gray conical bags hanging to twigs of the 
arborvitae, soft maple, locust or other trees. The dam- 
age this insect does, besides feeding on the leaves, is to 
girdle the twigs. The fastening around the twig is so 
tough it does not rot easily. Collect the cocoons during 
the winter, as this is the best method of attacking this 
pest. 

The Gypsy Moth. — Eats the foHage of any plant 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 69 

it comes to. The oval egg masses can be seen in winter 
at the base of trees and in other places, one and one- 
half inches long and half as wide. Destroy them. To 
protect trees from the caterpillars, wrap the trunk with 
burlap or tanglefoot, to stop their climbing the trees. 
Spray with arsenate of lead (I) in late spring and early 
summer. 

The San Jose Scale. — See description under apple. 
In addition to the fruit trees, this scale infests most 
seriously the Juneberry, hawthorn, privet, poplar, the 
various species of prunus, rose, willow, ash, lilac, osage 
orange, and elm. Spray the trees, when dormant, with 
lime-sulphur wash (Xa). 

White Tussock-moth. — This is most commonly 
found on lindens, horse-chestnuts, elms, and maples, 
but has damaged many kinds of trees. The young 
caterpillars appear in May and eat the leaves. This 
insect does not do sufficient damage yet to pay to spray 
for it, but effective work can be done against it by col- 
lecting during the winter the frothy egg masses found 
on the bark or on dead leaves, and burning them. The 
caterpillar is about an inch and a half long, and has 
four white tussocks on his back and two long, hairy 
horns on the forward end, and one on the rear end, of 
his body. 

Elm 

The Elm-leaf Beetle is doing much damage to elms 
in the northeastern states. In the spring, the beetles 



70 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

come out of their winter quarters and eat holes in the 
leaves. Spray with arsenate of lead (I). Repeat this 
about June i, getting it on the underside of the leaves, 
so that the larvae or grub will get it. Later in the sea- 
son, when the larvae are going to pupate, i. e., go into 
cocoons, they drop from the tree to the ground, and 
some may be found on the trunk. The pupae are yellow. 
Spray the trunks of the trees and the ground under the 
trees at this time with kerosene emulsion. During the 
winter and early spring, search attics, belfries, cupolas, 
for dormant beetles, collecting and burning them. 

Locust 

Locust-leaf Miner. — This insect eats the skin of 
the leaf so badly that in August the trees are as sear 
and brown as if scorched by fire. Spray with arsenate 
of lead (I) in the spring, just as soon as the leaves are 
out, that the adult beetle may be killed before the egg- 
laying season. 

Linden 

Putnam Scale. — See under Maple. 

Maple 

Cottony Maple Scale. — It is easily recognized by 
the presence of the white cottony masses which insects 
exude. These cottony masses protect the eggs. In 
winter, spray with kerosene emulsion (V), diluting the 
stock with only six to ten parts of water. 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 71 

Putnam Scale. — Very similar to San Jose scale. 
Usually only trees in cities are infested. Spray, when 
the trees are dormant, with lime-sulphur wash (Xa). 

Maple, Elm 

Leopard-moth. — The larvae of this insect are par- 
ticularly destructive about cities. They bore into the 
twigs and go on down into the larger branches. They 
ultimately damage the limbs so badly as to kill the 
branches, or weaken them so that they are broken off 
by high winds. Hunt the burrows and put carbon 
bisulphide in them, stopping up the end with putty. 
Small branches should be pruned off. 

Rose Rugosa 

TiEE Rose-scale. — See description under Raspberry. 
Although it infests all roses, this one is more subject to 
it than the others. Spray with kerosene emulsion (V) 
late in May, or with lime-sulphur wash (Xa), when the 
bushes are dormant. 



FERTILIZING THE SMALL GARDEN 

To maintain high fertility in the vegetable garden is 
a very serious problem for some amateur gardeners, for 
one of two reasons: either good stable manure is not 
available, or, — and a foolish reason, — they object to us- 
ing it. Stable manure is the best fertiUzer the amateur 
can' use, but in some localities it really is hard to get, 
for fresh manure, especially fresh horse manure, does 
not give, under ordinary circumstances, nearly such 
good results as does well-decayed manure. Stable 
manure contains a great deal of humus — vegetable 
matter — in addition to its fertilizing value. This 
vegetable matter in the soil is absolutely necessary, for 
without it the soil is unable to perform its proper func- 
tions. 

The soil is really a great big laboratory that is con- 
stantly changing the raw material into forms that are 
available for use by the plants. Practically all soils 
contain sufficient phosphoric acid and potash to supply 
the ordinary demand upon it for plant food. But un- 
less there is a large amount of humus in the soil, the 
bacteria which help to convert it into an available form 
cannot exist. 

If a good stable manure is used, it will rarely be nec- 
72 



TPIE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 73 

essary to resort to any commercial fertilizers to enrich 
the soil. For those who are unable to secure stable 
manure, humus must be supplied in another form. It 
can easily be done by growing such plants as clover or 
rye, and plowing them under in the spring. The way 
to do this is to sow these crops in the summer time at 
the time when cultivation is about over in the garden. 
For instance, in the cornfield it should be sown at the 
time of last cultivation, which is usually early in July. 
It should be sown among potatoes just before the plants 
actually cover the ground between the rows, so that 
the last cultivation will cover the seed. With other 
crops it can be sown as soon as the ground is clear. 
Where the sowing can be made in July, use crimson 
clover and hairy vetch or mammoth clover, using one- 
half of crimson clover and the other half composed of 
one or the other of the plants just mentioned. Where 
the sowing must be delayed until late in the season, put 
in rye. The clovers and vetches are better than the 
rye because they have the power of fixing the free at- 
mospheric nitrogen, making it available for their own 
use, and, when turned under, for the use of other plants. 
In addition to this green manure which is turned under 
in the spring at plowing-time, some commercial fer- 
tilizer must be used. The amount to use will vary ac- 
cording to the plants grown, and to the kind of soil in 
which the plants are grown. The best way to deter- 
mine the amount is by experimenting with the piece of 
ground on which the garden is planted. This, however, 



74 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

is something which most amateurs have neither the time 
nor the space to determine. For the ordinary vegetable 
garden, 150 to 300 pounds of nitrate of soda, 200 to 400 
pounds of muriate of potash, and the same quantity 
of acid phosphate will give good results. This will mean 
that every square yard should receive from one-half to 
one ounce of nitrate of soda, and two- thirds to one and 
two-thirds ounces of muriate of potash and of acid phos- 
phate. These three fertilizers are the raw material, and 
can be purchased from any seed store, and, in many 
cases, from other agents. A ready-mixed commercial 
fertilizer can also be bought from the same sources. If 
this is done, one which is guaranteed to contain four 
per cent of nitrogen, eight per cent of phosphoric acid 
and ten per cent of potash, that is available for plant 
use, will give good results. 

The amount to use of the above fertilizer will vary ac- 
cording to the crop. For instance, asparagus would 
need, 1,000 to 1,500 pounds per acre; beans and peas, 
500 to 600 pounds; beets and turnips, 1,000 to 1,500 
pounds, but in the small garden it will not pay for one 
to attempt to give these exact amounts to the various 
crops. A general appKcation of 1,000 pounds to the 
acre, or about three to four ounces to the square yard, 
will give sufficient fertiUzer for most plants. It should 
be given at the time of preparing the ground for the 
crop. In addition to this, the various crops should have, 
from time to time, during the season, a supplementary 
application of one or more of the raw materials. For 



THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 75 

instance, beans and peas should receive 220 to 230 
pounds of phosphoric acid to the acre, or a little less 
than an ounce to the square yard, and 65 to 75 pounds 
of potash per acre, or about a quarter of an ounce to 
the square yard; beets and turnips, 50 to 100 pounds 
of nitrate of soda to an acre, or about a third of an ounce 
to the square yard, and this can be repeated two or 
three times while the plants are still young; cabbage, 
cauliflower, and Brussels sprouts should be given a sup- 
plemental top-dressing of 100 pounds of nitrate of soda 
and 200 pounds of super-phosphate per acre, or one- 
third of an ounce of nitrate of soda and two-thirds of 
an ounce of super-phosphate to the square yard. Cu- 
cumbers, watermelons, muskmelons, pumpkins and 
squashes should be given further dressings, in addition, 
of course, to the commercial fertilizer given at the time 
of planting, of 200 to 300 pounds per acre of cottonseed 
meal, 100 to 200 pounds of dried blood, or 300 to 400 
pounds of tankage, or, an ounce of cottonseed meal, 
two- thirds of an ounce of dried blood, and one and one- 
third ounces of tankage to the square yard. 

To reinforce the original fertihzation when growing 
celery, frequent applications of nitrate of soda at the 
rate of 100 pounds to the acre, or one-third of an ounce 
to the square yard, will help to induce a strong leaf 
growth. This can be given several times during the 
season. The same quantities would apply very well, 
also, to eggplant, spinach, lettuce, and rhubarb. The 
best time to use these commercial fertilizers is in the 



76 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE 

spring when the ground is being prepared. They are 
usually harrowed into the soil, having been spread after 
the ground was plowed, although some people seem to 
prefer to put their commercial fertilizers in the hill 
under such crops as corn and potatoes. 

In recommending the use of commercial fertilizers 
in the vegetable garden, I do so only because some 
people cannot get manure, but barnyard manure will 
give the best results. Commercial fertilizers, without 
humus in the soil, act only as a stimulant and they do 
not give the results, — that is, one does not get one's 
money's worth from them unless there is a good supply 
of humus. 

The fertilizing of the garden composes one-half of 
what must be done to raise the crop; the other half is 
tillage. The ground must be thoroughly worked before 
planting, — that is, it should be worked deep and care- 
fully pulverized, and after the crops are growing, the 
surface of the soil should be cultivated once a week. 
These cultivations should not be deep; an inch or an 
inch and one-half is sufficient, the object being to main- 
tain a dust mulch upon the surface to prevent the 
evaporation of soil moisture. This can also be avoided 
by mulching the soil with such material as salt hay or 
straw. But the mulch can be maintained by cultiva- 
tion much more easily and cheaply, in most instances, 
than by the use of mulches. With the proper tools it 
will be an easy matter to maintain this dust mulch. 



APPENDIX 

I. TABLE OF GENERAL RULES 
II. PLANTING TABLE FOR FLOWERS 
III. PLANTING TABLE FOR VEGETABLES 
IV. PLANTING TABLE FOR BULBS 

V. A PLANTING CALENDAR 
VI. SPRAYING TABLE 
VII. PRUNING TABLE 

I. TABLE OF GENERAL RULES 

SPRAYING FORMULAS 

Formulas for Insecticides 

The following formulas will help to keep your plants 
free from insects and plant diseases. 

INSECTICIDES 

The insects infesting cultivated plants are divided 
into two general classes, — chewing insects and sucking 
insects, — and the remedies and exterminators are made 
to suit the kind of insect to be attacked. 

FOR chewing insects 

I. Arsenic in the form of Paris green or arsenate of 
77 



78 APPENDIX 

lead. The latter, arsenate of lead, is so much prefer- 
able to Paris green that formulas for it only are given. 
Paris green, if used in too large a quantity, will burn 
the plants; arsenate of lead will not, even though used 
in large quantities, and it remains in suspension much 
longer than Paris green. It is also sold under such trade 
names as Disparene. Arsenate of lead is white and 
comes in paste form. It is usually used at the rate of 
six ounces to five gallons of water, but can be used at 
the rate of one pound to five gallons. 

II. Resin Soap, used to make arsenical poisons stick 
to smooth surfaces, like cabbage. Five pounds pul- 
verized resin, one pound concentrated lye, one pint fish 
or any animal oil, five gallons water. 

To make, put the resin and oil and a gallon of water 
in an iron kettle and heat; when the resin has dissolved, 
add the lye, stirring the solution; add the balance of 
the water and boil the whole for two hours, or until the 
solution, when put in cold water, will make a clear, 
amber-colored liquid. The solution, when boiling, 
should be kept up to five gallons by adding water to 
make up for loss by evaporation. To use, dilute one 
pint of the soap with sixteen pints of water, and add 
three pints of milk of lime or whitewash, and one-fourth 
pound of Paris green, or it can be diluted with Bordeaux 
mixture. 

III. Poisoned Bran Mash. — One ounce white ar- 
senic, one to two ounces brown sugar, six to ten ounces 
bran. 



APPENDIX 79 

Mix these together, and add enough water to make 
a wet but not sloppy mash. This is used as a poison 
bait. 

IV. Hellebore, an internal poison for insects, but 
not to man. It is used in place of Paris green or arsenate 
of lead where there is danger of the poison remaining 
on the parts of plants to be eaten. Dust dry on the 
leaves, especially the underside, when the dew is on, or 
sprinkle the leaves to insure its sticking. As a solution 
it can be sprayed on, using one ounce to one to three 
gallons of water. 

FOR SUCKING INSECTS 

V. Kerosene Emulsion. — One-half pound hard 
soap, two gallons kerosene, one gallon water. 

Shave up the soap and dissolve it in the water, which 
should boil. Remove from the stove and, while still 
boiling, add the kerosene and thoroughly churn it. 
The best way to do this is by means of a bucket spray 
pump. Churn until it becomes a soft, butter-like mass. 
This is a stock solution; to use, dilute with ten to twelve 
parts of water. For scale insects in winter, stock solu- 
tion can be used without dilution. 

VI. Whale-oil Soap — (a) As a winter spray against 
scale insects, use two pounds to one gallon of water. 
Trunk and branches can be painted by hand in summer, 
but this strength will injure the leaves. Only one ap- 
plication of this strength should be used in a season. 

{b) One pound to one gallon of water. 



8o APPENDIX 

(c) One pound to eight to ten gallons of water. 

VII. Pyrethrum, or Insect Powder. — Burn in 
the house to kill fleas, flies, mosquitoes and cockroaches. 
As it deteriorates rapidly, it must be kept in a tight 
can. To spray, use one-fifth of an ounce (loo grains) 
in two gallons of hot water. 

VIII. Sulphur. — (a) One ounce to one gallon of 
water. 

(b) Place the flowers of sulphur on steam or hot- 
water pipe. 

(c) Dust on leaves. 

(d) Flowers of sulphur, one part; lime twenty to 
forty parts. 

IX. Tobacco (a) Dust. Sprinkle over cucurbits to 
drive away the striped beetle. Work it in the ground 
about plants infested with root-lice. In case of a tree, 
use one and one-half to two pounds. 

(b) Stems. Make a decoction, using one pound to 
two gallons of hot water. Let it stand for several hours 
in a tight vessel. It can be greatly improved by adding 
one ounce of pyrethrum. Dilute to use with three to 
five parts of water. 

(c) Fumigate with stems or with one of the tobacco 
extracts now on the market. If stems are used, care 
must be taken not to burn the foHage by too strong a 
smoke. 

X. Lime-sulphur Wash. — This is being recom- 
mended and used by horticulturists in place of Bordeaux 
mixture for the treatment of plant diseases, such as 



APPENDIX 8l 

apple scab, as well as for the San Jose scale, for which 
it was first used. Commercial lime-sulphur wash ready 
to use, except to dilute with water, according to the 
directions, can be bought, and is much handier to use 
than home-boiled. A home-boiled concentrated solu- 
tion can be made as follows: One pound lime, two and 
one-fourth pounds sulphur, one gallon water. 

Use an iron kettle, slake the lime in a little water, and 
add the sulphur when the lime begins to slake. Sift 
the sulphur in, and be sure there are no lumps. Boil 
hard for over an hour, or until the sulphur is dissolved, 
but it must boil for forty-five minutes, at least. Add 
water as necessary, and, when about finished, dilute 
with water, preferably hot water, to make one gallon. 
This should have a specific gravity of 1.30. 

(a) For winter, spray for San Jose scale. Dilute with 
nine parts of water (or to 1.03 specific gravity). 

(b) For spring, spray for apple, pear and quince, to 
prevent scab. Dilute with twenty to thirty parts of 
water (or, to i.oi to 1.015 specific gravity). 

(c) For summer, spray for apple, pear and quince. 
Dilute one part of the stock solution with thirty to forty 
parts of water. 

(d) For peaches, plums and cherries, for the brown 
rot, dilute with fifty to sixty parts of water (or 1.006 
specific gravity). 

XII. Carbolic Soap. — Two pounds of soft soap; 
dilute this with rain-water to consistency of paint, and 
add one ounce of crude carbolic acid. 



82 APPENDIX 



FUNGICIDES 

XIII. Copper Sulphate. — For use on dormant 
trees, dissolve three ounces in five gallons of water. 

XIV. Ammoniacal Copper Carbonate. — Dissolve 
five ounces of copper carbonate in three pints of am- 
monia (26° Beaume); dilute for use with forty-five gal- 
lons of water. The stock solution will keep indefinitely 
if kept in a tightly corked bottle. This will not stain 
the plants, as will Bordeaux mixture. 

XV. Potassium Sulphide, or Liver of Sulphur. — 
Dissolve one-half ounce in one gallon of water. This 
loses strength with age; mix it fresh. 

XVI. Formalin. — For potato scab, one pint to fif- 
teen gallons of water. 

XVII. Corrosive Sublimate. — Potato scab, two 
ounces to two gallons of water. 

XVIII. Bordeaux Mixture. — In five gallons of 
water, dissolve five ounces of copper sulphate by hang- 
ing in a bag in the top of the tub, and five and one-half 
ounces of good stone Hme, and stir thoroughly. Strain 
into sprayer and add, when an insecticide is wanted, as 
well, three to six ounces of arsenate of lead. 

XIX. Iron-sulphate. — For use on dormant plants 
only. Dissolve in three quarts of hot water as much 
iron-sulphate as the water will hold, then add one 
ounce sulphuric acid. 



APPENDIX 83 

Directions for Determining Acid Soils 

Add enough water to a half-cup of soil to make the 
consistency of thick cake batter, and insert blue litmus 
paper which may be obtained from a druggist, into it, 
without touching the part inserted, with the hands. If, 
when you rinse the inserted end, after an hour or so, it 
is very much reddened, the soil very likely needs liming. 
A pinkish color indicates a great deal of acid vegetable 
matter; brick-red, an absence of acid vegetable matter. 

Ammonia water is also used to determine the acidity 
of soil. Add a teaspoonful of ammonia water to a half- 
glass of water containing a tablespoonful of soil. If the 
mixture becomes brown or black after standing for 
some hours, acid vegetable matter is probably present. 

For most plants, lime is not required if the test shows 
only slight acidity. 

Directions for Applying Lime 

Lime may be applied after plowing, and mixed in 
with the harrow, or in the fall, to be followed by the 
spring plowing. Soils with a great deal of acid vegetable 
matter may require from 5,000 to 6,000 pounds, but, 
on sandy soils, 500 pounds to the acre may be all that 
is needed. 

Formula for Grafting Wax 

Place one part (by weight) of tallow, two parts of 
beeswax, and four parts of resin in a kettle. After it 



84 



APPENDIX 



has become completely melted, pour into a tub of cold 
water, and work it with the hands until it becomes the 
color of molasses-candy; make into balls before putting 
away in a cool place. This preparation may be kept for 
years, and is excellent for both indoor or outdoor use. 
The hands should be greased before working the wax. 

Table of Time Required for Seeds to Germinate 

Days 

Beans 5-10 

Beets 7-10 

Cabbage 5-10 

Carrots 12-18 

Cauliflower 5-10 

Celery 10-20 

Corn 5-8 

Cucumber 6-10 

Endive 5~io 



Days 

Lettuce 6-8 

Onions 7~io 

Peas 6-10 

Parsnips 10-20 

Peppers 9-14 

Radishes 3-6 

Salsify 7-12 

Tomatoes 6-1 2 

Turnips 4-8 



Table of Time Required for Maturity of Garden 
Crops 

Days from 
seed 
. . . .120-140 



Days from 
seed 

String beans 45-65 

Lima beans 65-70 

Beets 65 

Early cabbage 105 

Late cabbage 150 

Cauliflower no 

Corn 75 

Eggplant 150-160 

Lettuce 65 

Watermelons 120-140 



Muskmelons .... 

Onions 135-150 

Peppers 140-150 

Pumpkins 100-125 

Radishes 30- 45 

Summer squash 60- 65 

Winter squash 125 

Tomatoes 150 

Turnips 60- 70 



APPENDIX 



8S 



Longevity of Seeds 



Avg. years 

Beans 3 

Beets 6 

Cabbage 4 

Carrots 5 



Avg. years 

Parsnips i 

Parsley 3 

Peas 3 

Peppers 4 



Cauliflower 3 Radishes 5 



Celery 7 

Cucumbers 10 

Eggplant 6 

Endive 8 

Muskmelons 10 

Nasturtiums 5 

Onions 2 



Rhubarb 3 

Salsify 2 

Spinach 5 

Tomatoes 4 

Turnips 8 

Watermelons 6 



Table of Distances for Planting Fruits 



Ft. each way 

Apples 30-40 

Apples, dwarf 

(Paradise stocks) 8-10 

Apples, dwarf 

(Doucin stocks) 12-25 

Pears 20-30 

Feet apart 

Currants 4x5 

Gooseberries 4x5 

Raspberries, black 3x6 



Ft. each way 

Pears, dwarf 10-15 

Plums 16-20 

Peaches 16-20 

Cherries 16-25 

Quinces 8-14 

Grapes 8-12 

Feet apart 

Raspberries, red 3x5 

Blackberries 6x8 

Strawberries 1x3 



II. PLANTING TABLE 



We believe that this is the simplest, the most workable, and 
devised. It tells the best kinds of plants for special locations and 
needed for their successful cultivation. It is a wise plan to grow 
so that any gaps in the bed may be filled as the occasion requires, 
nuals. 



Variety 



I Abronia 



2 Achillea (Sneeze- 
wort) 



3 Adonis . . . 

4 Ageratum. 



5 Agrostemma 
(Rose-of-Heaven) 



6 Alonsoa 

7 Amarantus 



8 Aquilegia (Colum- 
bine) 



9 Argemone (Mexi- 
can Poppy) 



When to Sow Seed 



Indoors 



March 



March 
March 

April 

April 
April 



April in pots 



86 



Outdoors 



May 

June-Sept, i 

April 
May 

May 
May 



July-Sept. I 
May 



Thin or 

Trans- 
plant to 
(inches) 


Height 
(feet) 


12 


KtoiK 


12 


I toi>^ 




I 


6 


y2to}i 


6 


I to i}4 


6 to 12 


I to 3 


i8 


5 to 6 


8 


2>^ 


12 


I>^ to 2 



FOR FLOWERS 

consequent!)' the most satisfactory planting table for flowers ever 
purposes, and gives the most important information which is 
enough extra plants in a reserve bed or in pots during the summer, 
This table includes some perennials and biennials, as well as an- 



Season of 
Bloom 



1 July to frost 

2 July-October 

3 June-August 

4 June to frost 

5 July to frost 

6 July to frost 

7 August 

8 June-Sept. 

9 July, August 



Color of 
Flowers 



Yellow, pink, 
rose 



White 

Crimson 
Blue, white 

Rose, white 

Scarlet, white, 

Red, purple, 
yellow, white 



Yellow, white, 
red, blue 

Yellow, white 



Miscellaneous Information 



CaUfornia perennials, treat as 
hardy annuals. For contin- 
uous bloom sow seeds in pots 
in fall, winter in coldframes. 

Perennial. The best one is the 
Pearl, a double variety which 
is very popular. A good cut- 
flower. 

Seed slow to germinate. Prefers 
light, moist soil; and either full 
sun or partial shade. 

An excellent bedding plant. The 
best blue is the var. Stella 
Gurney. Edge beds with va- 
riegated-leaved geraniums. 

Plant in sunny situation in rich 
soil. Flowers one inch across. 
Very free flowering. 

Shov.y annual for border. Flow- 
ers one-half to one inch across. 

A good bedding plant where tall 
plants are wanted. A. tricolor 
has variegated foliage. A . cau- 
datus has drooping spikes. 

Start and winter in coldframe. 
Transplant in April. Protect 
over winter with dry leaves. 

Grow in clumps in border; glau- 
cous green foliage very eucct- 
ive with dark background. 
Leaves spiny. 



87 



88 



APPENDIX 



PLANTING TABLE 



Variety 



lo Asperula 



11 Aster (China) . . 

12 Aster (Perennial) 

13 Balloon Vine. .. . 

14 Balsam 



15 Bartonia. 



16 Beets 



17 Black Dahlia. . . 

18 Brachycome 
(Swan River 

Daisy) 



19 Cacalia (Emilia) 

20 Calandrina 



When to Sow Seed 



Indoors 



April 



March, April 



April 
April 



April 



March 



April 



Outdoors 



May 

May 
July-Sept. I 

May 
May 

May 



May 

May 
May 
May 



Thin or 
Trans- 
plant to 
(inches) 

6~ 



Height 
(feet) 



I to 3 
I to 3 

10 

2 to 2 >^ 

I to 3 

I to 2 
ltOI>^ 

Ktoi 

I to 2 

Xtoi 



APPENDIX 
FOR FLOWERS— Conlinued 



89 



Season of 
Bloom 


Color of 
Flowers 


10 Aug., Sept. 


Blue 


1 1 July-October 


Yellow, white, 
red, blue 


12 Sept., Oct. 


White, pink, 
blue 


13 Aug., Sept. 


White 


14 July to frost 


Yellow, white, 
pink, red 


15 July-Sept. 


Yellow 


16 


Ornamental 
foliage 




17 July, August 


Dark red 


18 


Blue, white 

Scarlet, yel- 
low 


19 July to frost 


20 


Rose, purple 



Miscellaneous Information 



Flowers fragrant. Grow in 
clumps in border or in rockery. 
Grow in moist soil in shaded 
places. 

Dwarf kinds may be used as a 
bedding plant, but beds must 
be refilled in late summer. 

A. Nova-AnglicB is the best fall 
blue flower. Plant for mass 
effect with dark background or 
small clumps in border. 

Flowers small, grown for its cu- 
rious, inflated seed-pods. Grow 
on fence or trellis for screens. 

The double or Camellia-flowered 
varieties are best. Grow in 
clumps in border in sunny situ- 
ation. 

Sow seeds where plants are to 
stand. Flowers two and one- 
half inches across; fragrant at 
night. Straggly habit. 

The variegated foliage — red, yel- 
low, green — makes a good 
mass effect. Plant in beds, 
edge with Golden Feather. 

Bidens atrosangiiinea of the trade. 
Has tuberous roots which may 
be kept over winter. Best for 
the border. 

Flowers one inch across. Best to 
grow in border. Very useful as 
an edging plant. 

Tassel flower. Has a daisy-like 
flower three inches across. 
Does well in any soil. 

\n extremely useful plant in 
rockeries or as an edging. 



go 



APPENDIX 

PLANTING TABLE 



Variety 



21 Calendula (Pot 
Marigold) . . 



22 Calliopsis (Core- 
opsis) 



23 Callirhoe (Poppy 
Mallow). .. . 



24 Campanula (Can- 
terbury Bell) . . 



25 Candytuft 



26 Cannabis (Giant 
Hemp) 



27 Cardinal Flower. 



28 Castor-bean(Ric- 
inus) 



29 Catananche. 



When to Sow Seed 



Indoors 



March 



March 



April 



April 



March 



April 



March 



Outdoors 



Late April 



April 



May 



July-Sept. I 



May 



May 



Thin or 
Trans- 
plant to 
(inches) 



4 to 12 



Height 
(feet) 



'A 



i^ 



I to 3 



2 to 3 



to lyi 



I to 2yi 



4 to 8 



2 to 3 



APPENDIX 
FOR FLOWERS— Continued 



91 



Season of 
Bloom 



21 June-Oct. 

22 June to frost 

23 July to frost 

24 Jiune-August 

25 June-Oct. 

26 

27 Aug., Sept. 

28 

29 June-August 



Color of 
Flowers 



Orange, yel- 
low 



Yellow 



Purple, lilac, 
red, cherry 



Blue, white, 
pink 

White 



Inconspicu- 
ous 



Scarlet 



Grown for 
foliage 

Blue, white 



Miscellaneous Information 



Must be planted in sunny situ- 
ation. Flowers open only in 
sun. 

One of the easiest grown annuals, 
Grow in clumps in the border. 
Self sows. Flower heads used 
to flavor soups. 

A good plant for beds. Flowers 
all summer if old flowers are 
picked off. Edge bed with al- 
ternanthera. 

Very free-flowering. Very 
showy. Grow in clumps in 
border. Better to start early 
in frames and transplant. 

Grow in clumps in border. Pro- 
tect young plants over winter 
with dry leaves, and coldframe, 
if possible. 

The dwarf forms are best for edg- 
ings. The taller varieties may 
be used as bedding plants 
edged with alternanthera. 

Sow seeds where plants are to 
stand. Excellent for tempo- 
rary screens, and backs of bor- 
ders. 

Lobelia cardinalis must be started 
early to get flowers same year. 
Thrives in any good garden 
loam. Grow in masses. 

Use as background to border, 
temporary screens. Start 
seeds one in a pot. Killed by 
the first frost. 

Blue daisy-like flowers two inches 
across. Var. alba white: bi- 



92 



APPENDIX 

PLANTING TABLE 



Variety 



30 Celosia (Cocks- 
comb) 



31 Carnation (Mar- 
guerite) 



32 Centaurea (Blue 
Bottle) 



ss Centranthus . . . . 

34 Chrysanthemum, 
Annual 



35 Cleome (Spider 
Plant) 



36 Cobcea. 



37 CoUinsia. 



38 Convolvulus 

39 Cosmos, Early. . . 



When to Sow Seed 



Indoors 



March, April 



March 



April 
March, April 

April 
March, April 

April 



Outdoors 



May 



April 
May 
May 

May 



April 



May 

April 

May 



Thin or 
Trans- 
plant to 
(inches) 



Height 
(feet) 



I tOlj4 

2 to 3 

I to 2 

I tOlK 



10 to 20 



I tOlJ^ 



to I 



APPENDIX 
FOR FLOWERS— Continued 



93 



Season of 
Bloom 



30 June to frost 

31 June to frost 

32 June to frost 
SS July to frost 

34 June-Oct. 

35 July, August 

36 Aug., Sept. 

37 July, August 

38 July to frost 

39 July, August 



Color of 
Flowers 



Red 



White, pink, 
red 



Blue, white, 
pink 

Red, white 



White, red, 
yellow 



Purple 



Violet, green- 
ish purple 



White, lilac, 
violet 



Blue 
White, pink 



Miscellaneous Information 



color, blue with white margin. 
Free-flowering. 
Used as a bedding plant. Not so 
much grown as formerly. 
Needs a rich, moist soil. Syr- 
inge for red spider. 

Excellent for beds and needs no 
edging. Flowers four months 
from seed. Constant and pro- 
fuse bloomer. 

Grow in masses in border or cor- 
ner about house. Self sows. 
Fall-sown seed flowers first. 

Grow in clumps in border, rock- 
ery or in garden vases. There 
is a dwarf form. 

Excellent bedding plant. Re- 
move old flowers. Is a good 
cut-flower, lasting well in wa- 
ter. 

Coarse grower. Best in clumps 
near back of border. Flowers 
borne in long spikes. 

Vine excellent for trellises, 
porches and covering unsightly 
objects. Flowers one to one 
and a half inches across. 

Curious snapdragon-like flowers. 
Very free-flowering. Prefers a 
moist soil. Grow in clumps in 
border. 

Tricolor, a dwarf form, best. One 
of the best annuals for border. 
Flowers open only in the sun. 

Start under glass for flowers in 
July. Grow in clumps in bor- 



94 



APPENDIX 

PLANTING TABLE 



Variety 



40 Cosmos, Late . 



41 Dahlia 



42 Dianthus (China 
Pink) 



43 Digitalis (Fox- 
glove) 



44 Eschscholzia 
(California 
Poppy) 



45 Evening Prim- 
rose 



46 Flax 



47 Four O'clock. . 



48 Gaillardia 



When to Sow Seed 



Indoors 



April, May 



March, April 



March, April 



April 



April 



Outdoors 



May 



Mays 



July-Sept. I 



May 



May 



May 



May 



Thin or 
Trans 
plant to 
(inches) 



24 



Height 
(feet) 



6 to 8 



I toiX 



3 to 4 



I toi>^ 



2 to 2>^ 



I>^t0 2 



^tOI 



APPENDIX 
FOR FLOWERS— Continued 



95 



Season of 
Bloom 



40 Sept. to frost 

41 Aug. to frost 

42 July to frost 

43 July, August 

44 July-Sept. 

45 July-Sept. 

46 July-Sept. 

47 July to frost 

48 July to frost 



Color of 
Flowers 



White, pink, 
red 



yellow 



White, pink, 
red 



Pink, white 



Orange, yel- 
low, white 



Yellow 



Red, blue 



White, yel- 
low, red 



Yellow, red 



Miscellaneous Information 



der. Cut back when half 
grown to induce flowering. 

Plant in back of border in clumps 
and stake plants. Protect 
plants from the early frosts. 
Good cut-flower. 

Plant separately in border or in 
rows in garden. Stake the 
plants to prevent their being 
blown over by high winds. 

Heddewigi blooms earliest. Best 
grown in clumps in border. 
Good cut-flower; but little 
odor. 

Biennial; self sows. Plant clumps 
near back of border. Protect 
seedlings over winter with dry 
leaves. 

Plant in masses; good edging, for 
its glaucous foliage looks well 
all summer. Keep seed-pods 
picked off. 

Lamarckiana best. Flowers open 
in evening, fragrant, four to 
five inches across. Acaulis 
has white flowers. 

Grow in clumps in sunny situa- 
tions in border. Flowers short 
lived but many new ones open 
each day. 

A good bedding plant for sunny 
places; edge bed with some- 
thing dwarf like Madame Sal- 
leroi geranium. 

Excellent for beds, needs no edg- 
ing in such cases. Plant for 
mass effect. Flowers abund- 
antly produced. 



96 



APPENDIX 

PLANTING TABLE 



Variety 



49 Gilia. 



50 Globe Amaranth 
(Gomphrena) . 



51 Golden-tuft 
(Alyssum). 



52 Gourds. 



53 Gypsophila. 



54 Hawkweed. 



55 Helianthus (Sun- 
flower) 



56 Hibiscus. 



57 Hollyhock. 



58 Honesty 
(Lunaria) 



When to Sow Seed 



Indoors 



April 



Mar., April 



April 



April, May 



Mar., April 



Mar., April 



Mar., April 



Outdoors 



May 

May 

July-Sept. I 
May 

May 

April, May 
May 

July-Sept. I 

July-Sept. I 

May 



Thin or 
Trans 
plant to 
(inches) 



3 to 12 



8 to 12 



12-36 



15-24 



IS 



Height 
(feet) 



>it0 2j^ 



'A . 

IS 

I to 2 
>^tOI 

3 to 6 

5 to 7 

St0 7 

i>^-2>^ 



APPENDIX 
FOR 'FLOWERS'-Continued 



97 



Season of 
Bloou 



49 July-Sept. 

50 July to frost 

51 July-October 

52 September 

53 July-Sept. 

54 Aug., Sept. 

55 July to frost 

56 August 

57 August 

58 June, July 



Color of 
Flowers 



Blue, red, 
white 



Red, white, 
blue 



Yellow 
White 

Rosy 

Yellow, red 
Yellow 

White to red 

White to red 

Pink, purple 



Miscellaneous Information 

Sow seeds where plants are to 
grow. Tricolor best tall one. 
Dwarf kinds good for edgings 
and clumps in rockery. 

Excellent for beds. Flower heads 
round, one inch across. Flow- 
ers used for winter bouquets. 
Prefers sandy soil. 

Grow in clumps in border or in 
rockery. Flowers produced in 
compact heads. 

Useful for training over trellis, 
porches, fences and covering 
unsightly objects. Has orna- 
mental fruit of many shapes. 

Muralis makes dense mound; ele- 
gans much used in bouquets. 
Paniculata, a perennial, best 
kind to grow. 

Showy annual for garden but bad 
weed in lawns. Looks like 
dandelion. Grow in masses. 

Grow as back to border or to 
screen unsightly objects. May 
be massed or grown in clumps 
with dark background. 

Grow as individual specimens. 
Has large flowers. Get named 
varieties like Crimson Eye, 
Golden Bowl. 

Use for back of border most ef- 
fective. Spray constantly with 
Bordeaux mixture for "Holly- 
hock disease." 

Grown chiefly for its large flat 
pods which have broad, satiny 
partitions v/hich remain after 
outside has dropped off. 



98 



APPENDIX 

PLANTING TABLE 



Variety 



59 Hop, 



60 Ipomoea (Morn- 
ing-Glory) ... 



61 Kochia. 



62 Larkspur 
(Annual). 



63 Lobelia. 



64 Lupinus . 



65 Madia (Tarweed) 



66 Marigold . 



67 Martynia (Uni- 
com plant). . 



68 Matthiola 
comis . . 



bi- 



When to Sow Seed 



Indoors 



March 



Mar., April 



Feb.-April 



April 
April 



Outdoors 



April, May 
April 
April 
Mays 
May 
May 
May 
May 
May 
April 



Thin or 
Trans- 
plant to 
(inches) 



12 



9 to 12 



24 



Height 
(feet) 



20 to 30 



10 to 15 



2 to 2yi 



toiK 



% 



I to 2 



>^t03 



to I 



APPENDIX 
FOR FLOWERS— Continued 



99 



Season of 
Bloom 


Color of 
Flowers 


CO 


Ornamental 




foliage 


60 June to frost 


Blue, red 
white 


61 


Grown for 




foliage 


62 June-Sept. 


Blue, white, 
red, pink 


63 June to frost 


Blue, white 


64 July, August 


Pink, blue, 
white 


65 July-Oct. 


Yellow 


66 July to frost 


Yellow 


67 July 


Yellow, pur- 
ple, white 


68 Aug. to frost 


White 



Miscellaneous Information 

The variegated Japanese hop; 
best. Used to cover trellises, 
etc. Self sows. Train on 
chicken-wire. 

Train over porches and trellises 
on strings. Needs rich soil 
and abundant moisture. Jap- 
anese strains very beautiful. 

Makes an excellent temporary 
hedge for gardens. Flowers 
very small. Beautiful light 
green foliage all summer. 

Seed sprouts slowly. Remove 
old flowers. Excellent cut- 
flower, grown in clumps in bor- 
der, or in rows in garden. 

Erinus excellent for edging bor- 
ders and flower-beds. Plants 
may be potted up in fall for 
winter flowers. 

Sow seeds where plants are to 
stand. Showy. Better grown 
as specimen plants or in 
clumps in border. 

Best for shaded places; in full sun 
opens only in morning and 
evening. Very open, graceful 
habit. 

Good for beds; grow tall ones in 
center, edge with dwarfs. Use 
as a filler in border. Very 
showy. 

A trailer more interesting than 
useful. Has curious-shaped 
seed-pods which make good 
pickles when young. 

Flowers uninteresting but very 
fragrant at night. Plant 



lOO 



APPENDIX 

PLANTING TABLE 



Variety 



69 Mignonette . 



70 Myosotis (For- 
get-me-not) . . . 



71 Nasturtium 



72 Nicotiana (To- 
bacco) 



73 Pansy. 



74 Petunia 



75 Phlox (Annual). . 



76 Poppy (Annual). 



77 Poppy, Iceland 



78 Pyrethrum. 



When to Sow Seed 



Indoors 



Mar., April 
April 

April 

April 
March 

Feb., March 

Mar., April 



Outdoors 



May 10 
May 

May I 

May 10 



April, July, 
August 



May 



May 



April, Sept. 
October 



April-Sept. 



July-Sept. 



Thin or 
Trans- 
plant to 
(inches) 



Height 
(feet) 



K 



I to 10 



3 



I to 2 



APPENDIX 
FOR FLOWERS— Continued 



lOI 



Season of 
Bloom 


Color of 
Flowers 


69 July to frost 


Greenish 
yellow 


70 June-August 


Blue, pink, 
white 


71 June to frost 


Yellow, red. 




orange 


72 July to frost 


White, pink 
red, yellow 


73 April to frost 


Various 


74 June to frost 


Red, white, 
pink 


75 July to frost 


Red, white, 
pink, yellow 


76 June-August 


Pink, red, yel- 
low, white 


77 June-August 


Red, yellow, 
white 


78 July, August 


White, pink, 
red 



Miscellaneous Information 



about house in inconspicuous 
places. 

Plant seed where plants are to 
grow. If started under glass 
put one seed in a two-inch pot. 

Plant in moist, partially shaded 
places. Blooms during cool 
weather. May be used as an 
edging for borders. 

Dwarf, good for edging beds. 
Tall kinds are used on trellis, 
fences, etc. Seeds good for 
flavoring pickles. 

Flowers sweet-scented at night. 
Plants must be staked. Plant in 
clumps in border or near house. 

Good bedding plant. Earliest 
flowers secured from August- 
sown seed. Spring-sown 
bloom in fall. 

Flowers fragrant. Excellent bed- 
ding plant and needs no edg- 
ing; also edging borders, vases, 
window-boxes. 

Good for edging or beds; use con- 
trasting colors. Remove old 
flowers to lengthen blooming 
period. 

Plant for mass effect or in clumps 
in border. Sow seeds where 
plants are to grow and make 
successive sowings. 

Grow in clumps in border. Fall- 
sown bloom first. Sow in 
spring for succession. Peren- 
nial winter-kills second winter. 

Daisy-Uke flowers which have 
long stems; good cut-flower. 



I02 



APPENDIX 

PLANTING TABLE 



Variety 



79 Portulaca. 



80 Salpiglossis . 



81 Salvia. 



82 Scabiosa 

(Mourning 
Bride) 



83 Silene (Catchfly) 

84 Snapdragon 



85 Stocks (Ten 
Weeks). . 



86 Sweet Alyssimi. 



87 Sweet Pea. 



When to Sow Seed 



Indoors 



April 

Feb., March 

April 

March 
March 

Mar., April 



Outdoors 



May 



May 



May 



May 



April 



May 



April, May 



Mar., April 



Thin or 
Trans- 
plant to 
(inches) 



Height 
(feet) 



18 



6 to 12 



2 to 2^ 



2 to 3 



I toi>^ 
I to i}4 



APPENDIX 
FOR FLOWERS— Continued 



103 



Season of 
Bloom 



79 July to frost 

80 Aug. to frost 

81 Aug. to frost 

82 July to frost 

83 July-Sept. 

84 July to frost 

85 July-Sept. 

86 June-Oct. 

87 July-Sept. 



Color of 
Flowers 



Red, white 



Yellow, white, 
red, brown 



Scarlet 



White, pur- 
ple, yellow 



Red, white 



Yellow, white, 
pink, red 



Pink, scarlet, 
white, yellow 



White 



All colors 



Miscellaneous Information 



Grow in clumps. Flowers 
sometimes four inches across. 

Excellent for beds in dry, sunny 
places. Easily transplanted. 
Flowers open only on bright 
days. Self sows. 

Grown in clumps in border. Fo- 
liage viscid. Funnel-shaped 
flowers, prettily marbled, two 
inches across. 

The best scarlet flower for late 
summer and fall. Good bed- 
ding plant. Edge bed with 
coleus or geraniums. 

Dwarf plants producing long 
flower-spikes crowned with 
flower-heads two inches across. 
Grow in border. 

Prefer a light sandy soil with full 
exposure to sun. Good as 
clumps in border or rockery. 

Good bedding plant; must be 
started early indoors. Good 
cut-flower lasting well in wa- 
ter. 

Good as a bedding plant or 
clumps in borders. Flowers 
fragrant, last well in water. 
The double varieties best. 

One of the best annuals. Good 
in clumps in borders or as an 
edging. Fall-sown seed bloom 
in early summer. 

Must be planted early that 
growth may be made before 
hot weather. Syringe with 
water to prevent red spider. 



I04 



APPENDIX 

PLANTING TABLE 





When to Sow Seed 


Thin or 
Trans- 
plant to 
(inches) 


Height 


Variety 


Indoors 


Outdoors 


(feet) 


88 Sweet William . . 

89 Venus' Looking- 

glass (Speccu- 
laria) 


March 


July-Sept. I 
April 
May 

May 


6 
6 
6 
6 


2 

H 


90 Verbena 

91 Zinnia 


Feb.-April 
Mar., April 


I 

I>^t0 2 



APPENDIX 
FOR FLOWERS— Continued 



105 



Season of 
Bloom 



88 June, July 

89 Aug., Sept. 

90 June to frost 

91 June-Oct. 



Color of 
Flowers 



Red, white, 
pink 



White, blue 



White, pink, 
red, blue 



Red, yellow, 
pink, white 



Miscellaneous Information 



Bloom first year if seed is sown 
early. Grow in clump in bor- 
der. Remove old flowers to 
prolong blooming season. 

Good edging plants, also for 
clumps in border. Has bell- 
shaped flowers one inch across. 
Does not transplant well. 

One of the best bedding plants, 
and is a good cut-flower. 
Choice varieties may be per- 
petuated by cuttings. 

May be used as a bedding plant, 
better as clumps in border. 
Plant for mass effects. Flow- 
ers will last after frost. 



III. PLANTING TABLE 



After studying planting tables of many kinds, we are convinced 
for planting vegetables which has ever been published. In using 
south of the latitude of New York City. If this table is carefully 
amateur to have a constant succession of vegetables until late in 
seedsmen. 





When to Sow 


Hill 

OR 

Drill 




Variety 


Indoors 


Outdoors 


Necessary 


I Artichoke, 
Globe 


February 




H. 

H. 

D. 
D. 


I oz. for 500 
plants 

I oz. for 50 
feet 

I qt. for 100 
feet 

I qt. for 100 
feet 


2 Asparagus . 


April 

Mar., April 
May 


3 BeanS) Broad 




4 Beans, Bush 
Lima 









106 



FOR VEGETABLES 

that the amateur will find this the most helpful and practical table 
the table, allow ten days for every one hundred miles north or 
followed throughout the summer, it will make it possible for the 
the fall. When selecting varieties, it is best to consult the local 



How Deep 
TO Plant 
(inches) 
R.= roots 
S.== seeds 



S.I 
R.6 



Thin or 
Transplant 
TO (inches) 



24x36 



24x36 



12 X 24 



6 X 12 



Season of 
Crop 



September 



April-June 



June, July 



Aug. to frost 



Cultural Information 



French Globe is the 
standard sort. Grow 
in rich soil. Is grown 
for the flower-heads 
which are gathered 
before they open. 
Bears for two or three 
years if given slight 
protection. 

Barr's Mammoth, Col- 
ossal and Palmetto, 
best green varieties. 
Mammoth White has 
white stalks. Needs 
rich soil. Cut bed 
lightly first season. 
Cut off and burn 
stalks in fall. 

As hardy as peas. For 
early crop plant Early 
Mazagan; main crop. 
Broad Windsor. 
When pods have 
formed break off top 
of plant to force 
strength into pods. 

For early crop plant 
Henderson's; second 
early, Dreer's; main 
crop. Large Bush. 



107 



io8 



APPENDIX 

PLANTING TABLE 



Variety 



5 Beans, Pole 
Lima 



When to Sow 



6 Beans, Wax . 



7 Beans, Pole. 



8 Beets. 



9 Broccoli 



Indoors 



Outdoors 



Hill 

or 

Drill 



Seed 
Necessary 



May 


H. 


May-Aug. 


D. 


May 


H. 


April-Aug. 


D. 


April 


H. 



I qt. for loo 
bills 



I qt. for I GO 
feet 



I qt. for IOC 
hills 



I oz. for 50 
feet 



I oz. for 2,000 
plants 



APPENDIX 



109 



FOR VEGETABLES— Continued 



How Deep 
TO Plant 
(inches) 
R.= roots 
S.=^ seeds 



Thin or 
Transplant 

TO (inches) 



5 2 



6 2 



7 2 



8 1J4 



9 H 



Season of 
Crop 



36x36 



12 X 24 



36x36 



9 X 18 



24x36 



Aug. to frost 



July on 



Aug. to frost 



July on 



July-October 



Cultural Information 



Plant the "eye" 
down. Use commer- 
cial fertilizer in row. 
Needs warm land. 

For early crop plant 
Early Sieva; second 
early, Early Jersey; 
main crop, Large 
White; late crop, 
Dreer's Pole. Use 
ten- foot poles and 
plant them before 
putting in the beans. 

For early crop plant 
Early Valentine; sec- 
ond early, Refugee 
Wax; main crop, Gold- 
en Wax; late crop, 
Early Valentine. Sow 
every two weeks for 
succession. 

For early crop plant 
Kentucky Wonder. 
Dutch Caseknife, and 
Lazy Wife are good, 
but later. All will 
bear until frost. 

For early crop, Egyp- 
tian; second early, 
Eclipse; main crop, 
Edmund's; late crop, 
Eg3T)tian. Sow early 
varieties every two 
weeks, using beets 
when small and ten- 
der. 

Similar to cauliflower, 
but better adapted 



no 



APPENDIX 

PLANTING TABLE 



Variety 



lo Brussels 
Sprouts 



II Cabbage 



12 Cardoon. 



13 Carrot . 



Indoors 



Feb., Mar, 



ro Sow 


Hill 

or 

Drill 


Outdoors 


April, May 


H. 


May, June 


H. 


May, June 


H. 


April-July 


D. 



Seed 
Necessary 



I oz. for 2,000 
plants 



I oz. for 2,000 
plants 



I oz. for 300 
plants 



I oz. to 100 
feet 



APPENDIX 



in 



FOR VEGETABLES—Continued 



How Deep 
TO Plant 

(inches) 
R.= roots 
S.=^ seeds 



lO H 



II }4 



12 



13 H 



Thin or 
Transplant 
TO (inches) 



18x36 



24x36 



24x36 



6x18 



Season of 
Crop 



October on 



July on 



August on 



July on 



Cultural Information 



than it for the cool 
North. For early 
crop grow Early 
White; main crop, 
Mammoth White or 
Purple Cape. 

Good varieties are Long 
Island, Salkeith, Half 
Dwarf. Not good un- 
til touched by frost. 
Are hardy, so may be 
left outdoors during 
winter if protected 
with straw or corn- 
stalks. 

For early, plant Early 
Jersey Wakefield; sec- 
ond early. All Head; 
main crop, Late Flat 
Dutch. Late crop can 
be planted on land on 
which early peas were 
grown. 

Good varieties are Large 
Spanish, Large Solid. 
Grow on rich ground. 
When three feet high 
tie tops together, pro- 
tect with straw and 
draw earth about 
stems to blanch. 

For early crop plant 
Early Forcing; second 
early, main crop, Dan- 
vers; late crop. Early 
Forcing. For contin- 
uous crop of small ten- 



112 



APPENDIX 

PLANTING TABLE 



Variety 



14 Cauliflower 



IS Celery 



16 Chard, Swiss 



17 Com. . 



18 Corn Salad 



When to Sow 



Indoors 



February 



April 



Outdoors 



April, May 



April 



May, June 



April, Aug. 



Hill 

OR 

Drill 



H. 



H. 



D. 



Seed 
Necessary 



I oz. for 2,000 
plants 



I oz. for 2,000 
plants 



I oz. for 50 
feet 



I quart for 100 
hills 



I oz. for 100 
feet 



APPENDIX 
FOR VEGETABLES— Continued 



113 



How Deep 
TO Plant 
(inches) 
R.= roots 
S.=^ seeds 



14 'A 



15 H 



16 ih 



17 iH 



18 K 



Thin or 
Transplant 
TO (inches) 



24 X 18 



6x48 



9x24 



36x36 



6x6 



Season of 
Crop 



July-October 



August on 



June to frost 



Aug. to frost 



June on 



Cultural Information 



der roots sow bi- 
weekly. 

For earliest crop sow 
Earliest Dwarf Er- 
furt; second early, 
Early Snowball; main 
crop, Algiers; late 
crop, Earliest Dwarf 
Erfurt. Needs cool 
weather and rich, 
moist soil. 

For earliest crop grow 
White Plume; second 
early, Golden Self- 
blanching; main crop, 
Giant Pascal. Give 
an abundance of a ni- 
trogenous manure like 
nitrate of soda. 

No choice as to varieties. 
Commence cutting 
when leaves are six 
inches high. New 
leaves will be formed. 
Cook and serve like 
beet greens. 

For early plant Peep 
O'Day; second early, 
Golden Bantam; mid- 
sea son, Crosby's 
Twelve-rowed; main 
crop, plant every two 
weeks, Stowell's Ever- 
green. 

Grown mostly for fall 
salad. Good substi- 
tute for lettuce. Will 
live outdoors all win- 



114 



APPENDIX 

PLANTING TABLE 



Variety 



19 Cress 



20 Cucumber. 



21 Dandelion. 



22 Eggplant . 



23 Endive. 



When to Sow 



Indoors Outdoors 



March 



Feb., Mar, 



April-July 



May-July 



April 



April-Sept. 



Hill 

OR 

Drill 



D. 



H. 



D. 



H. 



Seed 
Necessary 



I oz. to 50 
feet 



I oz. to 50 
hills 



I oz. for 1,000 
plants 



I oz. for 1,000 
plants 



I oz. for 150 
feet 



APPENDIX 
FOR WEGETABLES— Continued 



"5 



How Deep 
TO Plant 
(inches) 
R.= roots 
S.— seeds 



19 X 



20 >^ 



21 K 



23 K 



Thin or 
Transplant 

TO (inches) 



Season of 
Crop 



3x6 



36x36 



12 X 18 



36x36 



June on 



July to frost 



Following 
spring 



Aug. to frost 



Sept. through 
winter 



Cultural Information 



ter if given a protec- 
tion of straw or leaves. 

Of the garden cress 
sow Curled or Upland 
every two weeks; 
when cut it will grow 
again. Water cress 
can be grown in 
damp soil as well as in 
water. 

For early crop grow 
Early White Spine; 
second early, Cool 
and Crisp; main crop, 
Long Green. Start a 
few plants indoors on 
inverted sods. 

Grown for pot herb. 
They are greatly im- 
proved by blanching 
which is done by cov- 
ering with an A- 
shaped trough. Good 
varieties are French 
Garden, Thick- 
leaved, Large-leaved. 

New York Spineless is 
the best variety. Do 
not set plants in gar- 
den until ground is 
thoroughly warm and 
there is no danger of 
frost. 

For early, sow White 
Curled; main crop. 
Green Curled or 
Broad-leaved. Make 
successive sowing 



ii6 



APPENDIX 



PLANTING TABLE 



Variety 



24 Kale 



25 Kohlrabi. 



26 Lettuce , 



27 Lettuce, 
Romain 



When to Sow 



Indoors Outdoors 



Feb., Mar. 



May 



May, June 



Apr.-Aug. I 



April-July 



Hill 

OR 

Drill 



D. 



D. 



D. 



D. 



Seed 
Necessary 



I oz. for 150 
feet 



I oz. for 200 
feet 



I oz. for 120 
feet 



I oz. for 100 
feet 



APPENDIX 
FOR VEGETABLES— Continued 



117 



How Deep 
TO Plant 
(inches) 
R.== roots 
S.= seeds 



24 H 



25 'A 



26 )4 



27 J4 



Thin or 
Transplant 

TO (inches) 



12 X 18 



12 X 24 



8x24 



8x24 



Season of 
Crop 



September 



Aug., Sept. 



June to frost 



July to frost 



Cultural Information 



every two or three 
weeks. For winter 
use store plants in the 
cellar. 

Grow and give the same 
attention as for cab- 
bage. Good varieties 
are Dwarf Green, 
Curled Scotch, Dwarf 
Curled Brown. Sow 
Siberian in Septem- 
ber for early "greens," 

For early crop grow 
Short-leaved Early 
White Vienna or 
Early Purple Vienna 
in frames; main crop. 
Early White Vienna. 
Gather when bulbs 
are three inches in di- 
ameter. 

For early grow Grand 
Rapids, a loose head; 
second early, Curled 
Simpson; main crop. 
Salamander. During 
hot weather protect 
lettuce from hot mid- 
day sun. 

Express Cos, Trianon 
Cos good varieties, 
Blanch by tying 
leaves together with 
rafl&a. Seem to re- 
sist heat well. Need 
deep rich soil and 
plenty of nitrogenous 



ii8 



APPENDIX 

PLANTING TABLE 





When to Sow 


Hill 

or 

Drill 


Seed 
Necessary 


Variety 


Indoors 


Outdoors 


28 Melon, Musk. 


April 


May, June 


H. 


I oz. for 60 
hills 


29 Melon, Water 

30 Mustard .... 




May 

April, May 
May 


H. 


I oz. for 30 




D. 


hills 
I oz. for 80 


3iOkra 


March 


D. 


feet 

I oz. for 40 
feet 


32 Onion 


February 


April 


D. 


S., I oz. for 
100 feet 

R., I qt. for 
SO feet 



APPENDIX 
FOR VEGETABLES— CoiUinued 



119 



How Deep 
TO Plant 
(inches) 
R.== roots 
S.— seeds 



28 



29 



30 



31 iK 



32 



R. 2 



Thin or 
Transplant 
TO (inches) 



60 X 60 



60 X 60 



1x6 



18 X 24 



12 X 24 

6 X 24 



Season of 
Crop 



Aug. to frost 



Aug. to frost 



Ready in four 
weeks 



July to frost 



Cultural Information 



May on 



For early, Netted Gem ; 
second early, Emer- 
ald Gem; main crop, 
Long Island Beauty. 
Prefer a moist sandy 
soil. Spray with Bor- 
deaux mixture to pre- 
vent blight and mil- 
dew. 

For early crop Early 
Fordhook ; second 
early. Cole's Early, 
main crop, Cuban 
Queen. Watermelons 
prefer a light, sandy, 
but moist soil. Spray 
with Bordeaux mix- 
ture. 

Good varieties are Chin- 
ese or White London. 
Make successive sow- 
ing every ten days or 
two weeks. Mustard 
adds a pleasant pun- 
gent flavor to salads. 

Good varieties Dwarf 
Prolific, White Velvet, 
Long Green. Used 
for flavoring gumbo 
soup. Pick pods 
when one to two 
inches long. Surplus 
can be dried or 
canned. 

For earliest crop plant 
onion sets; for main 
crop. White Globe or 
Prizetaker. Latter 



I20 



APPENDIX 

PLANTING TABLE 



Variety 



33 Parsley. 



34 Parsnip. 



35 Peas. 



36 Peas, Sugar. 



When to Sow 



Indoors 



Outdoors 



April 



April 



Mar.-June 



April 



Hill 

or 

Drill 



D. 



D. 



D. 



D. 



Seed 
Necessary 



I oz. for 150 
feet 



I oz. for 200 
feet 



I qt. for 100 
feet 



I qt. to 100 
feet 



APPENDIX 



121 



FOR VEGETABLES— CofUimied 



How Deep 
TO Plant 
(inches) 
R.= roots 
S.— seeds 



33 H 



34 'A 



35 



36 3 



Thin or 
Transplant 
TO (inches) 



6 X 12 



6 X 24 



4x36 



4x36 



Season of 
Crop 



May on 



Sept. through 
winter 



June to frost 



July 



Cultural Information 



variety started early 
under glass and trans- 
planted to open in 
May. 

Good varieties Moss 
Curled, Fern-leaved. 
Used for garnishers. 
Soak seed for several 
hours in lukewarm 
water to hasten germ- 
ination. Hamburg or 
Turnip-rooted has 
fleshy root. 

For early plant Early 
Round; main crop, 
Hollow Crown. 
Much improved by 
keeping over winter 
in ground. To be 
available at any time 
give mulch. 

For early crop, Daniel 
O'Rourke; second 
early, Nott's Excel- 
sior; main crop, Cham- 
pion of England; late, 
Daniel O'Rourke. 
Late crop subject to 
mildew. 

These are edible-podded 
peas which are picked 
while the pea or seed 
is still small and the 
pod tender. They 
are broken up, cooked 
and served like string 
beans. 



122 



APPENDIX 



PLANTING TABLE 



Variety 



37 Pepper. 



38 Potato. 



39 Pumpkin 



40 Radish. 



41 Rampion 



When to Sow 



Indoors 



March 



Feb., Mar. 



Outdoors 



April, May 



May, June 



Apr.-Sept. 



May 



Hill 

or 

Drill 



H. 



H. 



D. 



Seed 
Necessary 



I oz. for 2,000 
plants 



I peck for 100 
hills 



I oz. for 30 
hills 



I oz. for ICO 
feet 



I oz. for 200 
plants 



APPENDIX 
FOR VEGETABLES— Cow/mw^i 



123 



How Deep i 
TO Plant ' 
(inches) I 
R.^ roots 
S.= seeds 



37 



38 2, early 
S, late 



Thin or 
Transplant 
TO (inches) 



18x36 



12 X 24 
18x36 



39 iK 



40 K 



41 ys 



108 X 108 



Season of 
Crop 



July to frost 



July on 



3x8 



3X 



September 



Mature in 25 
days 



Oct.-Feb. 



Cultural Information 



For early plant Neapol- 
itan; second early, 
Bull Nose; main crop, 
Ruby King. Neapol- 
itan has a very sweet 
flesh and is the best 
for cooking. 

For early crop, Early 
Rose; second early, 
Beauty of Hebron; 
main crop, Carman 
No. I, or Green 
Mountain. Spray 

with Bordeaux mix- 
ture and Paris green 
every two weeks. 

Two good varieties for 
pies are Sugar and 
Dunkard. Must be 
stored in a warm (45**) 
dry place or they will 
rot. Plant among 
corn to save room. 

For early plant Early 
Scarlet Turnip Forc- 
ing; second, French 
Breakfast and Long 
Scarlet, For winter. 
Half-long Black Span- 
ish. Make successive 
sowing once a week. 

Roots can be eaten like 
radishes or they and 
the leaves can be 
served in salads. 
Store roots in damp 
sand in cellar. It has 



124 



APPENDIX 



PLANTING TABLE 



Variety 



42 Rhubarb 



43 Salsify. 



44 Spinach. 



45 Spinach, New 
Zealand . . . 



46 Squash. 



When to Sow 



Indoors Outdoors 



March 



Sept., Oct. 



April 



Mar.-May 
October 



May 



May-June 



Hill 

OR 

Drill 



H. 



D. 



D. 



H. 



Seed 

Necessary 



I root a plant 



I oz. for 75 
feet 



I oz. for 100 
feet 



I oz. for 100 
feet 



I oz. for 50 
hills 



APPENDIX 
FOR VEGETABLES— Continued 



125 



How Deep i 
TO Plant | Thin or 
(inches) I Transplant 
R.= roots I to (inches) 
S.= seeds 



42 R. 4 



43 ^H 



44 



45 



46 I 



48x48 



6x8 



6x18 



12 X 24 



Bush, 36 X 48 
Late, 72 X 96 



Season of 
Crop 



May-July 



Sept. through 
winter 



May-August 



July-Sept. 



Aug. through 
winter 



Cultural Information 



the smallest seed of 
any vegetable. 

Linnaeus, Victoria, St. 
Martins are all good 
varieties. To get the 
earhest rhubarb put 
barrel over plant and 
surround it with fresh 
horse manure. 

Long White and Sand- 
wich Island Mam- 
moth are good vari- 
eties. Hardy. Store 
over winter in cellar 
packed in damp sand. 
Used to flavor soups, 
stews, etc. 

Sow Winter Thick- 
leaved in fall for early 
spring use. Protect 
with mulch of leaves 
or straw. Longstand- 
ing, Long Season, Vic- 
toria good for spring 
sowing. 

Not a true spinach but 
a good substitute as it 
withstands the heat of 
midsummer when 
spinach will not grow. 
Use the ends of the 
branches and leaves. 

For early crop, White 
Bush Scallop, Yellow 
Crookneck. These 
are summer squashes. 
For winter use grow 
Boston Marrow or 



126 



APPENDIX 



PLANTING TABLE 





When to Sow 


Hill 

or 

Drill 




Variety 


Indoors 


Outdoors 


Necessary 


47 Tomato 

48 Tumio 


Feb.-April 




H. 

D. 
H. 


I oz. for 1,000 
plants 

I oz. for 150 
feet 

I oz. to so 
hills 


Apr.-Aug. 
May, June 


49 Vegetable 
Marrow 









APPENDIX 
FOR VEGETABLES— Continued 



127 



How Deep 
TO Plant 
(inches) 
R.= roots 
S.= seeds 



47 ^ 



48 



49 



Thin or 
Transplant 
TO (inches) 



36x48 



4 X 18 
8x30 



36x48 



Season of 
Crop 



Aug. to frost 



Aug. through 
winter 



August 



Cultural Information 



Hubbard. Dust with 
hme or ashes. 

For early crop grow 
Earliana; second 
early, Early Jewell; 
main crop, Acme and 
Stone. Wrap stem of 
plant before planting 
in open with brown 
paper to protect from 
cutworms. 

For early grow Early 
Milan; second early. 
Purple-top White 
Globe; late crop, Rut- 
abaga. The latter 
need not be sown until 
July or August. 

Very delicious squash 
vegetable. Must be 
picked before fully 
mature as with sum- 
mer squashes. Eng- 
lish grows nine inches 
long. Italian twenty 
inches long. 



IV. PLANTING TABLE FOR BULBS 



Variety 



Belladonna Lily . 
Poppy Anemone. 



Spirea 

Mariposa Tulip. . 
Glory-of-the- 

Snow 

Meadow Saffron . 

Lily-of-the-Valley 
Powell's Crinum . 
Spring Crocus. . . 

Fall Crocus 

Bleeding-Heart . . 
Winter Aconite. . 

Eremurus 

Dog's-tooth Violet 

Freesia 

Crown Imperial . . 

Snake's-Head. . . 

Snowdrop 

Early-flowering 

Gladiolus 

Christmas Rose. 

Amaryllis 

Summer Hyacinth 
Dutch Hyacinth. 
Italian Hyacinth. 
Roman Hyacinth 
Hardy Gloxinia. . 
German Iris 



Tender 

or 
Hardy 



Color 


Depth 
to Plant 
(inches) 


Dis- 
tance 
Apart 
(inches) 


Red to white 


3 


50 


Red, blue, 


2 


3 


white 






White, pink 


2 


18 


Yellow 


8 


8 


Blue 


2 


2 


Purple, pink, 


2-3 


6 


white 






White 


3 


2 


Pink 


8 


12 


Yellow, pur- 


2-3 


3-4 


ple, white 






Lilac 


2-3 


3-4 


Red 


2 


36 


Yellow 


3 


6 


Rosy 


2 


48 


Rosy purple. 


3 


3 


lilac 






White 


I 


2 


Red, orange, 


3-6 


6-8 


yellow 






Purple and 


2-3 


4 


green 






White 


2 


3 


Red, white 


2 


6 


White 


4 


12 


Red 


2 


6 


White 


4 


6 


All colors 


3-5 


5-6 


White 


I 


3 


All colors 


4 


6 


PurpHsh rose 


4 


18 


All colors 


3 


18 



128 



APPENDIX 



129 



PLANTING TABLE FOR BXJLBS— Continued 



Variety 



English Iris. . . 
Spanish Iris . . . 
African Com Lily 
Red-Hot Poker 
Leopard Lily. . 



Tender 

or 
Hardy 



Snowflake. . . . 
Gold-banded Lily 
Canadian Lily. . . 

Ascension Lily . . . 
Thunberg's Lily. 



Easter Lily. . 
Spotted Lily. 



Turk's-cap Lily. . 
Tiger Lily 



Grape Hyacinth. 

Narcissus bulbo- 
codium 

Narcissus incom- 
parabUis 

Jonquils 

Narcissus 

poeticus 

Narcissus Pseu- 
do-Narcissus . . 

Paper- White Nar- 
cissus 

Arabian Star of 
Bethlehem. . , . 

Bermuda Butter- 
cup 



H. 
H. 
H. 
H. 
T. 

H. 
H. 
H. 

H. 
H. 

T. 
H. 

H. 
H. 

H. 

H. 

H. 
H. 

H. 

H. 

T. 

T. 

T. 



Color 



Depth 
to Plant 
(inches) 



Dis- 
tance 
Apart 
(inches) 



Blue, white 


3 


Blue, yellow 


3 


All colors 


3 


Red 


4 


Yellow, tip- 


I 


ped green 




White 


4 


White 


6 


Yellow, 


6 


orange, red 




White 


6 


Yellow, 


7 


orange, red 




White 


I 


Pink, red, 


8 


white 




Orange, red 


6 


Red, spotted 


8 


purple 




Blue, white 


1-3 


Yellow 


5 


Yellow, white 


4 


Yellow 


5 


White 


6 


Yellow, white 


6 


White, yellow 


I 


White 


I 


Yellow 


I 



2-3 

3 

6 
3 

4 

5 

3 

3 

3 



Time to 
Force 
(weeks) 



5 
4 
2 


6 
8 
8 


24 
3 


""&" 


4 
12 




12 




12 


16 


12 




3 

12 


12-14 


12 




12 





4 

4 

3-4 
3 

3-4 

3-4 

3-4 

16 



I30 



APPENDIX 



PLANTING TABLE FOR BTTLBS— Continued 



Variety 


Tender 

or 
Hardy 


Color 


Depth 
to Plant 
(inches) 


Dis- 
tance 
Apart 
(inches) 


Time to 
Force 
(weeks) 


Persian Ranuncu- 
lus 


T. 
T. 
H. 
H. 

T. 
H. 
H. 
H. 

H. 
H. 

T. 


Yellow, red 

White 

Blue 

Blue, white, 

pink 

Red, yellow 

Yellow 

White 

Orange, 

crimson 

All but blue 

All but blue 

Blood-red 


I 
3 
3 

6 

4 
4 

3 
3 

I 


3 
12 

4 
4 

3 
6 
6 
6 

5 
5 
6 


8 


Calla 




Squills .... 


2 


Wood Hyacinth . . 

Windflower 

Autumn Daffodil . 

Wake-robin 

Montbretia 

Cottage Tulip . . . 

Early Tulip 

Scarborough Lily 


2 
8 

3-4 



V. A PLANTING CALENDAR 



The cultural directions and other information about each will 
be found in the tables on the preceding pages. 

FLOWERS 



MARCH 

Plant Indoors Set Out 

Ageratum May 15 

Antirrhinum (Snap- 
dragon) May 30 

Asters May 15 

Begonias (Seed) June i 

Begonias (Fibrous) . .June i 
Carnation, Margue- 
rite June I 

Celosia, Cockscomb . May 15 
Cobaea scandens .... May 15 

Heliotrope June i 

Hollyhock, Annual.. .May 15 

Lobelia May 15 

Nemesia May 15 

Pansy May 15 

Pentstemon May 15 

Petunia May 15 

Salvia May 15 

Stocks (Gilliflower) . May 30 

Verbena May 15 

Wallflower May 15 



APRIL 

All those listed for March 
may also be planted in April, 
and, in addition, the following: 

Sow Indoors Set Out 

Alysstmi May 1 5 

Arctotis grandis May 15 

Browallia June i 



Sow Indoors Set Out 

Calendula May 15 

Coleus June i 

Cosmos, Late May 15 

Dahlias May 15 

Delphiniimi Chinense June i 

Gerardia June i 

Globe Amaranth. . , . May 15 
Gourds, Ornamental. May 15 
Helianthus cucumeri- 

folius May 15 

Marigold May 15 

Maurandia June i 

Mignonette May 15 

Nicotiana May 15 

Phlox Drummondii. .May 15 

Poppy, Iceland June i 

Ricinus (Castor-Oil 

Plant) May 15 

Salpiglossis May 15 

Scabiosa May 15 

Schizanthus June i 

Vinca rosea May 15 

Zinnia May 15 

Sow Outdoors 

Sweet Peas 

Nasturtiimi 

MAY 

This is the month of outdoor 
sowing and planting. Even in 
New England all flowers may 
either be sown or planted after 
the fifteenth of May. The fol- 



131 



132 



APPENDIX 



A PLANTING CALEJflD AR— Coniinucd 



lowing list of flowers comprises 
those which may be sown in 
the open, and which will ma- 
ture into perfection before 
frosty weather sets in. 

Sow Outdoors 
(Do not require transplanting) 

Sweet Alyssum 

Bartonia aurea 

Calendula 

Calliopsis 

Candytuft 

Centaurea (Bachelor's But- 
ton) 

Chrysanthemum, Annual 

Clarkia elegans 

Convolvulus minor 

Cosmos, Early 

Delphiniiun Chinense 

Dianthus (Chinese Pinks) 

Eschscholtzia (California 
Poppy) 

Gaillardia (Blanket Flower) 

Globe Amaranth 

Godetia 

Ornamental Gourds 

Helianthus cucumerifolius 
(Miniature Sunflower) 

Hunnemannia fumariaefolia 

Larkspur, Annual 

Lavatera 

Lupins, Annual 

Malope 

Marigold 

Mignonette 

Nasturtiimis 

Petunia 

Phlox Drummondii 



Poppy 

Portulaca 

Salpiglossis 

Scabiosa 

Verbena 

Zinnia 

(Should be transplanted) 
Asters 
Balsam 

Celosia (Cockscomb) 
Cosmos, Late 
Dahlias 
Marigold 
Mignonette 
Nicotiana 
Ricinus 



JUNE 

This is the month to sow 
perennials. The varieties listed 
below can easily be grown from 
seed. All of them may be sown 
from June till September. 

To Remain Where Sown 

Achillea Ptarmica 

Agrostemma 

Alysstun saxatile compactum 

Anthemis Kelwayi 

Aquilegia (Colimibine) 

Asclepias tuberosa 

Asters, New England 

Bocconia 

Coreopsis 

Campanula (Bluebells) 

Candytuft, Sempervirens 

Hibiscus 

Lupins 



APPENDIX 



^3S 



A PLANTING CALENDAR— Continued 



Lychnis 


JULY 


Lythriim 




Poppies, Iceland 


This is the most important 


Poppies, Oriental 


month for sowing some flower 


Sweet William 


seeds. The following biennials, 


Valerian (Garden Heliotrope) 


if sown in July and trans- 


To BE Transplanted 


planted in August or Septem- 


Aconitum 


ber, will flower the following 


Canterbury Bells 


sprmg. 


Delphinium (Larkspur) 


Variety 


Digitalis (Foxglove) 


Bellis (English Daisies) 


Gaillardia grandiflora 


Pansies 


Hollyhocks 


Myosotis (Forget-me-not) 


Pyrethrum 


Silene 



BULBS AND TUBEROUS ROOTS 



MAY 


Summer Hyacinths 




Montbretias 


Plant Outdoors 


Dahlias 


Anemones 


Gladioli 


Begonias 


Tigridias 


Caladiums 


Tuberoses 


Calla Lilies 





VEGETABLES 



MARCH 


Plant Indoors 


Set Out 




Cauliflower, Early. 


.May 15 


The only vegetable to be 


Celery 


. June I 


planted out-of-doors in March 


Eggplant 


.June 15 


is early peas. There are a num- 


Kohlrabi 


.May I 


ber of vegetables, however, 


Lettuce . . .• 


. .Apr. IS 


which may be started indoors 


Parsley 


.May I 


or in hotbeds. 


Pepper 


June I 


Plant Indoors Set Out 


Tomato 


.May IS 


Artichoke, Globe June i 


Outdoors 




Cabbage, Early May i 


Peas, Early Smooth 



134 



APPENDIX 



A PLANTING CALENDAR— Continued 



APRIL 

All the seeds mentioned in 
the March table can be started 
in April, and also the following: 

Plant Indoors Set Out 

Asparagus, Seeds June 

Beets May 

Brussels Sprouts June 

Cabbage, Late June 

Cauliflower, Late June 

Plant Outdoors 
Asparagus, Roots 
Beets 
Carrots 
Cress 
Kohlrabi 
Lettuce 
Mustard 
Onion Seed 
Onion Sets 
Parsley 
Parsnip 

Peas, Early Wrinkled 
Potatoes 
Radish 

Rhubarb, Roots 
Swiss Chard 
Squash 
Turnip 

Set out Lettuce started indoors 
in March. 



MAY 

Plant Outdoors 

Beans, Bush 

Beans, Pole 

Com, Sugar 

Cuctunber 

Muskmelon 

Watermelon 

Okra 

Peas, Late 

Piunpkin 

Squash 
All the seeds mentioned in 
the April table may also be 
sown in May. 

Set out early cabbage, early 
cauliflower and tomato plants 
started indoors in March and 
April. 

JUNE 

Plant Outdoors 
Beans, Late Bush 
Beans, Late Pole 

Set out Globe artichokes, 
Brussels sprouts, late cabbage, 
cauliflower, celery, eggplants, 
and peppers which have been 
started indoors. 

Plant Swiss chard, sugar 
corn, lettuce, late peas, radishes 
and turnips for late crops. 



VI. SPRAYING 

The formulas for insecticides and fungicides referred to here will 



What to Spray 
AND What to 


Spray With 


Time of First 
Spraying 


Spray for 






Apples— 






I Bitter Rot 


Bordeaux mixture. 


First appearance of rot. 


2 Canker Worm 


Arsenate of lead, Paris 


On first appearance of 




green. 


worms. 


3 San Jose Scale 


Commercial lime-sul- 


When the leaf buds be- 




phur. 


gin to swell. 


4 Scab 


Self-boiled lime-sulphur 
or Bordeaux mixture. 


As the buds are sv/ell- 




ing. 


4a Codling Moth 


Arsenate of lead. 


After the petals drop. 


Asparagus — 






5 Beetle 


Arsenate of lead. 


Early spring. 


6 Rust 


Bordeaux mixture. 


After cutting crop. 


7 Blackberry . . 


Arsenate of lead, Paris 




green. 




8 Cabbage and 






Cauliflower . 


Pyrethrum. 


On first appearance of 
worms. 


9 Celery 


Bordeaux mixture. 


On young seedlings. 


Cherry— 






lo Aphis 


Kerosene emulsion 


At first appearance. 


II San Jose 






Scale 


Commercial lime-sul- 
phur. 


Before buds open. 


12 Leaf-spot. . . . 


Lime-sulphur 


Just before blossoms 
open. 


Cucumbers— 






13 Anthracnose . 


Bordeaux mixture. 


When plants begin to 


14 Downy Mil- 




run. 


dew 


Bordeaux mixture. 


When plants begin to 


Currant- 




run. 


is Leaf-spot 


Bordeaux mixture. 


\s leaves are unfolding. 


16 Worm 


White hellebore. 


When they first appear. 



136 



TABLE 

be found in general table of rules, page 155. 



Time of Second 
Spraying 



1 One to two weeks later 

2 Two or three days 
later if worms remain 

3 If a bad case, repeat, 

4 Just before the blos- 
soms open. 

One month later. 



6 Ten days later. 



8 Whenever worms are 
noticed. 

9 Repeat on seedlings. 



10 Repeat as necessary. 

1 2 When fruit is free 
from calyx. 

13 Two weeks later. 

14 Ten days later. 



15 Two weeks later. 

16 In three or four days 



Time of Third 
Spraying 



Two weeks later. 
Same as second. 



As the blossoms fall. 



Ten days later. 



Before or after 
transplanting. 



Two weeks later. 

Two weeks later. 
Nine days later. 



Two weeks later. 
Repeat three or four 
days later. 

137 



Time of Fourth 
Spraying 



Ten to fourteen days 
after fall if nec- 
essary. 



Ten days later. 



Two weeks later. 



Two weeks later. 

Two weeks later. 
Eight days later. 

Three weeks later. 



138 



APPENDIX 



SPRAYING 



What to Spray 

AND What to 

Spray for 


Spray With 


Time of First 
Spraying 


Gooseberry— 

17 Leaf-spot. .. . 

18 Worm 

19 Mildew 


Bordeaux mixture. 
Same as for Currants. 
Potassium sulphide. 


Before leaves start. 

When buds are break- 
ing. 


Grape — 

20 Anthracnose . 


Bordeaux mixture. 


Just before buds open. 


21 Berry Moth. . 

22 Downy or 
Powdery Mil- 
dew 


Arsenate of lead. 

Bordeaux mixture. 
Bordeaux mixture. 


Before blossoms are 
ready to open. 

Just before blossoming. 
Just before blossoming. 


23 Rot 


MUSKMELON — 

24 Anthracnose . 

25 Downy Mil- 
dew 


Bordeaux mixture. 

Bordeaux mixture. 
Bordeaux mixture. 


When plants begin to 

vine. 
July 25 to Aug. I. 
When plants begin to 


26 Leaf-blight... 


Peach— 

27 Leaf-curl 

28 Brown Rot. . . 


Commercial lime-sul- 
phur or Bordeaux 
mixture. 

Self-boiled lime-sulphur 
and arsenate of ead. 


In March or April, or 
both, to make dou- 
bly sure. 

About time shucks are 
shedding from young 
fruit or on first ap- 


29 Scab 


Bordeaux mixture. 


pearance. 
Just as buds begin to 
swell. 


30 San Jose 
Scale 


Commercial lime-sul- 
phur. 


In late fall or early 
spring, or both, if 
bad. 



APPENDIX 



139 



TABLE— Continued 



Time of Second 
Spraying 



17 Two weeks later. 

19 Repeat every ten 
days until fruit is 
gathered. 

20 Just before blossom 
ing. 

21 After blossoms have 
fallen. 



22 After fruit has set 

23 Just after fruit has 
set. 

24 Two weeks later. 

25 Ten days later. 

26 Three weeks later. 



28 Two or three weeks 
later. 



29 After fruit has set. 



Time of Third 
Spraying 



Two weeks later. 



After fruit has set. 
Ten days later. 



Ten days later. 
Eight days later. 



Two weeks later. 

Nine days later. 
Three weeks later. 



About one month 
before fruit rip- 
ens. Omit arse- 
nate of lead. 

Repeat later when 
fruit is about half 
grown. 



Time of Fourth 
Spraying 



Three weeks later. 



Ten days later 



Eight days later. 



Two weeks later. 

Eight days later. 
Two weeks later. 



14© 



APPENDIX 



SPRAYING 



What to Spray 

AND What to 

Spray for 

Pear — 

31 Leaf-blight. . 

32 Psylla 

Plum — 

2,3 Curculio .... 

34 Aphis 

35 Shot-hole 
Fungus 

36 Rot 

Potato — 

37 Early Blight. . 

38 Late Blight. . 

39 Potato Beetle 

Raspberry — 

40 Anthracnose . 

41 Saw-fly 

42 Leaf-spot . . . 

Rose— 

43 Leaf-spot. . . . 

44 Slug 



Spray With 



Time of First 
Spraying 



Bordeaux mixture. 



Kerosene emulsion or 
whale-oil soap. 



Arsenate of lead. 

Whale-oil soap. 

Self-boiled lime-sulphur 

Bordeaux mixture. 
Bordeaux mixture. 

Bordeaux mixture. 
Bordeaux mixture. 
Paris green. 

Bordeaux mixture. 

Paris green and arsen- 
ate of lead or helle- 
bore. 

Bordeaux mixture. 

Bordeaux mixture. 
Hellebore. 



Cut out the branches 
on first appearance 
on twigs. 

In winter, use commer- 
cial lime-sulphur for 
eggs. 

With starting of buds. 

On appearance of aphis. 

When leaves are half 

grown. 
As buds are swelling or 

on appearance. 

When plants are 6 

inches high. 
As for early blight to 

July. 
When pest appears. 

Before leaves open. 
When pest first appears. 

When leaves are hall 
grown. 

On first appearance 01 

fungus. 
On appearance of slugs. 



APPENDIX 



141 



TABLE— Continued 



Time of Second 
Spraying 



32 After blossoms fall. 



35 Just after blossoms 
drop. 



35 Three weeks later. 

36 Just after calyx 
drops. 

37 Seven to ten days 
later. 

38 July 15 to 20. 

39 Repeat if necessary. 



40 When new canes are 
6 to 8 inches high. 

41 Repeat in three or 
four days, 

42 Two weeks later. 



43 Two or three weeks 
later. 

44 Repeat if neces- 
sary. 



Time of Third 
Spraying 



Repeat at intervals 
of three to seven 
days. 

Five days later. 



Three weeks later if 

necessary. 
Three or four weeks 

later. 

Two weeks later. 
Two weeks later. 



Ten days later. 



Two weeks later. 



Repeat if necessary. 



Time of Fourth 
Spraying 



As fruit begins to 
color. 

Two weeks later if 

necessary. 
Ten days later. 



Ten days later. 



142 



APPENDIX 



SPRAYING 



What to Spray 

AND What to 

Spray for 



Strawberry- 
45 Leaf-spot. 



Squash — 
46 Aphis . 



47 Lady Beetle. 

Tomato — 

48 Anthracnose . 

49 Leaf -blight . . 

50 White Fly . . . 



Spray With 



Sulphate of iron, Bor- 
deaux mixture. 



Kerosene emulsion. 
Arsenate of lead. 

Bordeaux mixture. 
Bordeaux mixture. 
Soap and water. 



Time of First 
Spraying 



Soon after growth be- 
gins. 



Spray underside of 
leaves. 

As soon as pest ap- 
pears. 

Soon after fruit begins 

to set. 
Three weeks after 

transplanting. 
Spray underside of 

leaves thoroughly. 



APPENDIX 



143 



TABLE— Continued 



Time of Second 
Spraying 



45 Make three or four 
sprayings during sea- 
son. 



46 Three weeks later. 

48 Three weeks later. 

49 Three weeks later. 



Time of Third 
Spraying 



The following spring 
spray just before 
blossoming and 
again 10 days 
later. 



Three weeks later. 
Three weeks later. 



Time of Fourth 
Spraying 



Three weeks later. 



VII. PRUNING 



The following compilation contains brief directions for pruning 
accepted rulings of the best authorities. 



Fruits 



1 Apple 

2 Blackberry. 

3 Cherry 

4 Currant 

5 Gooseberry., 



6 Grape 

7 Peach 



8 Pear. 

9 Plum 



ID Quince. 



11 Raspberry 

Shrubs, Etc. 

12 Azalea . . . . 



13 Barberry 

14 Bridal 
Wreath . . 



How TO Prune 



15 Clematis . . . 

16 Crape Myrtle 

17 Deutzia . . . . 



Trim for low-headed and open trees. 

Cut to the ground the canes that fruited last 

year. 
Cut back young shoots. 

Cut out old canes freely. 

Cut out old canes freely. 

Prune heavily to get new fruit-bearing wood. 
Cut back freely. Half of previous season's 

shoots may be removed. Thin out well. 
Thin out dead wood and trim for compact 

trees. 
Needs little pruning except in case of Japanese 

varieties. 



Young trees should be cut well back. 



Cut away all bearing canes as soon as they drop 
their leaves. 



Cut out only enough to leave plant shapely. 

Only do away with what is weak and straggly. 

Should be pruned thoroughly to make solid 

growth. 
Cut out all branches that are not strong. 

Cut back to secure strong new shoots. 

Very sparingly cut out dead and straggly wood. 



144 



TABLE 

fruits and the better-known shrubs. It is based on the generally 



When to Prune 



1 February, March. 

2 January-March. 

3 February, March. 

4 February, March. 

5 February, March. 

6 February, March. 

7 February, March. 

8 February, March. 

9 February, March. 

10 February, March, 

1 1 August, Sept, 

12 May, June. 

13 March, April. 

14 May. 

15 March. 

16 January-March. 

17 June, July. 



Remarks 



Pruning should be moderately done. 
Should also be summer pruned. New shoots 

over 3K feet high should be pinched oflF. 
The cherry is sensitive to pruning and it 

should be done moderately. 
A succession of strong young shoots should 

be maintained. 
Destroy all canes that have borne three 

crops. 
Throws out new vines with vigor. 
No fruit tree requires so much pruning as 

the peach. 
Pruning should be moderately done. 

The pruning, when the trees are young, 

should be only enough to properly form 

the tree. Afterward simply cut out dead 

wood and straggly branches. 
After the second year the tree should be 

trained to form a round and rather 

spready head. 
If the bearing canes of the previous season 

were not cut in the fall, it may be done in 

late winter or early spring. 

Pruning should follow after the blossoms 
have gone. 

Pruning on common variety can be done in 
early summer. 

After the flowers fade is the best time to 
prune. 

Be sure to retain as much old wood as pos- 
sible. 

The flowers are borne on the new shoots, so 
that it is necessary that they be sturdy. 



145 



146 



APPENDIX 



PRUNING 



Shrubs, Etc. 

18 Dogwood . . . 

19 Elderberry . . 

20 Honeysuckle. 

21 Hydrangea.. 

22 Ivy, Boston . 

23 Ivy, English. . 

24 Laurel, 
Mountain . . . 

25 Lilac 

26 Mock Orange 

27 Rhododen- 
dron 

28 Rose, 
Climbing. . . . 

29 Rose, Hybrid 
Perpetual . . . 

30 Rose, Hybrid 
Tea 

31 Rose, 
Japanese .... 

32 Rose of 
Sharon 

33 Rose, Yel- 
low 

34 Spiraea, Pink 

35 Spiraea, 
Thunbergii . . 

36 Trumpet Vine 

37 Weigela. . . . 

38 Wistaria .... 

39 Virginia 
Creeper 



How TO Prune 



Thin out dead wood and straggly branches. 
Cut back one-half of season's growth. 



Cut back last season's growth severely. 
Destroy the dead wood and straggling branches. 

Very little, only to trim vine. 
Only as necessary to thin out. 

As little as possible. 

Cut back severely every year. 
Cut out dead wood. 

As little as possible. 

Cut back about one-third. 

Cut out all dead wood and back to four eyes on 
last year's growth. 

Cut out all dead wood and back to five eyes on 
last year's growth. 

Take out dead wood and weak shoots. 

Cut back thoroughly annually. 

Cut back one-third of last year's growth. 
Cut back one-half of last season's growth. 

Thin out straggling and weak branches. 
Cut back old wood severely. 

Prune lightly. 

Cut freely the tendrils to the spurs at the axis 
of the leaves. 

Prune young plants freely. It strengthens them. 



APPENDIX 



147 



TPiELE— Continued 



When to Prune 



18 May, June. 

19 August, Sept. 



20 March, April. 

21 March. 

22 March, April. 

23 March, April. 

24 July- August. 

25 June, July. 

26 July. 

27 June, July. 

28 June, July 

29 February, March. 

30 April. 

31 February, March. 

32 February, March. 

33 April. 

34 March. 

35 May. 

36 February, March. 

37 June, July. 

38 March. 

39 March, April. 



Remarks 



Pruning should follow flowering. 

Pruning should follow fruiting, and should 

be rather severe to induce a strong new 

growth. 
To thin out in fall is also a wise plan. 
Cut weak shoots during summer to develop 

large flowers. 



Pruning helps sickly plants. Do it after 

they have flowered. 
Pruning should be done after flowers fade. 
Should be thinned after flowering. 

Pruning should follow flowers. It some- 
times invigorates sickly plants. 
Pruning should follow flowers. 



Prune when swelling of leaf-buds starts. 



This should be attended to early in the 

spring. 



Pruning should follow flowering. 

If the shoots are cut well back to main 

stem, the plant will benefit. 
Cut only enough to remove dead wood and 

straggly branches. 
Many successful growers repeat the pruning 

in midsummer. 



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ant in a horticultural way, and also a key to all the leading genera that 
are described in the work. This key will enable the student to trace 
out the plant and refer it to its proper genus; by the aid of the generic 
key he can run it down to its species. 

Special effort has been made to include the leading plants cultivated 
in the tropics, inasmuch as the scattered island territories of the United 
States are now bringing our people in touch with tropical conditions. 
Careful treatment has been given to such articles as Insects, Diseases, 
Greenhouses, Conservatories, Fertilizers, Alpine Gardening, Vegetable- 
Growing, The Cut-Flower Interests, Storage and Handling of Horti- 
cultural Products, The Planting of Trees and Shrubs, Pruning, Cost- 
Accounting in Horticultural Operations. Many lists of plants for special 
purposes and also extensive planting lists have been included. 

With the elaborate introductory part, which is well illustrated by 
diagrams representing the structure of the different families, and with 
the extended accounts of the diflFerent genera, the work is in effect a 
great Cyclopedia of botany as well as of horticulture. 

The contributors include the very best botanists and cultivators in 
the country. 



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RURAL SCIENCE SERIES 



Edited by L. H. BAILEY 

On Selection of Land, etc. 

Isaac P. Roberts' The Farmstead 

On Tillage, etc. 

E. G. Cheyney's Farm Forestry (Preparing) 

F. H. King's The Soil 

Isaac P. Roberts' The Fertility of the Land 

F. H. King's Irrigation and Drainage 

Edward B. Voorhees' Fertilizers 

Edward B. Voorhees' Forage Crops . 

S. M. Tracy's Forage Crops for the South (Preparing) 

J. A. Widtsoe's Dry Farming .... 

L. H. Bailey's Principles of Agriculture . 

On Plant Diseases, etc. 

E. C. Lodeman's The Spraying of Plants 

On Garden-Making 

L. H. Bailey's Garden-Making 

L. H. Bailey's Vegetable-Gardening 

L. H. Bailey's Forcing Book .... 

On Fruit-Growing, etc. 

L. H. Bailey's Nursery Book .... 
L. H. Bailey's Fruit-Growing .... 
L. H. Bailey's The Pruning Book 

F. W. Card's Bush Fruits .... 



On the Care of Live-stock 

John A. Craig's Sheep Farming 

Nelson S. Mayo's The Diseases of Animals 8th ed 

W. H. Jordan's The Feeding of Animals . 

I. P. Roberts' The Horse .... 

M. W. Harper's Brea'dng and Training of Horses 

George C. Watson's Farm Poultry. New edition 

On Dairy Work, Farm Chemistry, etc. 

Henry H. Wing's Milk and Its Products . 
J. G. Lipman's Bacteria and Country Life 

On Economics and Organization 

G. Harold Powell's Cooperation in Agriculture 
W. A. McKeever's Farm Boys and Girls . 
I. P. Roberts' The Farmer's Business Handbook 
George T. Fairchild's Rural Wealth and Welfare 
H. N. Ogden's Rural Hygiene .... 
J. Green's Law for the American Farmer 



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NEW FARM AND GARDEN BOOKS 

How to Keep Hens for Profit 

By C. S. valentine 

Cloth, illustrated, i2mo, $1.50 net; postpaid, $1.63. 

"The Plymouth Rock, Java, Dominique, Wyandotte, Rhode Island 
Red, and Buckeye breeds are discussed in the first few chapters. Con- 
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half-tone engravings adorn the book. From the standpoint of the prac- 
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very best of its kind. The author is evidently an experienced poultry- 
man. It is a book that should be of special help to beginners in poultry, 
while at the same time it contains much information for the expert." 

— Farmers' Tribune. 

The Beginner in Poultry 

By C. S. valentine 

Decorated Cloth, profusely illustrated, i2mo, $1.50 net; postpaid $i.6j 

It has been estimated that of the five million people who are raising 
poultry in this country today half have gone at it blindly. And it is 
just as impossible to make a success of the poultry business without 
preparation as it is impossible to succeed in any other business without 
an acquaintance with the fundamentals. The difiiculty which the 
novice has experienced in going at the raising of chickens systematically 
in the past has been that he could find no book in which the essentials — 
only the essentials and all of them — of poultry-raising are given. To 
write such a book has been Mr. Valentine's purpose. In "The Beginner 
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NEW FARM AND GARDEN BOOKS 

Injurious Insects: How to Recognize and 
Control Them 

By W. C. O'KANE 

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and Professor of Economic Entomology in New Hampshire College 

Illustrated. Cloth, i2mo. $2.00 net. 

Complete information on the characteristics, life histories and means 
of control of the more common injurious insects, including those infest- 
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tinctive feature of the work is the illustrations with which the text 
throughout is accompanied. These have been made especially for Dr. 
O'Kane. With each insect treated he shows in an original photograph 
the characteristic injurious stage or the typical work of the insect where 
that is characteristic. By this means the author hopes that the layman 
will be able to recognize an insect that threatens by the picture aside 
from any description in the text. 

Principles of Fruit Growing 

By Professor L. H. BAILEY 

New edition. Cloth, i2mo. $1.50 net. 

Since the original pubHcation of this book, in 1897, it has gone through 
many editions. The progress of fruit growing in the meantime has been 
very marked and it has been necessary to completely rewrite the work. 
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practically all of the illustrations are new. 



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OCT 23 WIS 



